Cuisine discoveries

Two weeks ago, my family went out of town to experience something unusual, something new. This is my wife Neni Sta. Romana Cruz’s account of the experience:

It is always exciting and interesting to discover something new in the most unexpected places. In a narrow, congested and nondescript side road in Silang, Cavite, how serendipitous to discover a paradise of greenery on half a hectare of land. As soon as one entered the Indian-themed doorway, one was transported to another world. One felt pampered and enthralled – this is Mrs. Saldo’s, a restaurant of only over a year, which opens only on Thursdays to Sundays.  But perhaps with an added second floor to a main building and additional staff, that schedule would open up more.

In truth, there is no Mrs. Saldo. Saldo is a zinfandel red wine (described as a dark-skinned grape wine) whose name the chef owner Rhea Rizzo adopted because it sounded distinct and is also an Indian word that means “balance.” That was a direction she rather liked. And just to make it more feminine, Mrs. Saldo was born. It also came to life when Rhea and family, Napa Valley residents, no longer wanted to reside there when wildfires were too dangerously common – and closer to their home. But how much of Napa she has taken with her, the wine Saldo and the influence of French Laundry’s Thomas Keller on her. And how it is reflected in her cuisine.

I am writing/raving about this very pleasant Sunday lunch experience at the risk of making bookings even more challenging.  When one’s reservation is finally confirmed, one is relieved but then overwhelmed by the choices one has to make prior to the visit – as pre-orders are required 72 hours before your visit. I took the Asian tastings menu and could not finish all of it. (It even has all of the 12 servings printed on a pretty card to guide you.) This is because Rhea is guided by the thought that on other occasions, even with so much on the menu, one still went home hungry – and she would not have any of it. Not here with her dozen tastings.

No one had any critical comment about the food and it was blissful to take our dessert al fresco when the February air was there to pamper us – perhaps to remind us that summer was around the corner? Why, even our takeouts (our doggie bags were full) survived the travel to Manila and were still good the day after.

Mrs. Saldough’s (a clever pun) artisan bakery has just opened with its excellent sourdough. Cakes were not available for the public yet, as their “practice” cakes were only display, but were still being observed if they were ready to be served. Would they collapse the day after – was the test they had yet to pass.

One cannot but take pride in returning Filipino chefs like Rhea Rizzo who has so much to share.

Some favorite restaurants

Cuisine is an integral part of a people’s culture. I always remember the books and articles written by the late Doreen Gamboa Fernandez on food as an important part of a people’s history and culture. Filipino cuisine in my childhood days was confined to being eaten at home. But in the last few decades, our Filipino cuisine has become more internationally known, with restaurants devoted exclusively to Filipino cuisine. It is a well-known fact that Jollibee has increasingly gained global recognition. For those interested, I have my own list of Filipino restaurants that I have patronized and even brought foreign visitors to.

This includes Fely J in Greenbelt 5, Abe’s with its original location in Remedios Circle and its BGC branch in Serendra. There are restaurants I remember from my La Salle college days that continue to remain popular, like Milky Way and Little Quiapo. Outside Manila the must-go Filipino restaurants are Balay Dako in Tagaytay. The name is Ilonggo for “big house.” In my hometown, Bacolod, the Bob’s chain of restaurants is what I remember most as going back several decades.

PatisTito Garden Café in San Pablo is memorable for the ambience and the food. I haven’t revisited it in a long time so I am sure it is even better now.

XO 46 Bistro is interesting because its staff are wearing traditional Filipino attire and speak only in Filipino to guests.

There are other excellent restaurants that serve non-Filipino cuisine. For Japanese food, my favorites are Tsukiji in Makati and Hanakazu in Alabang. I used to like Inagiku in the Makati Shangri-la, which unfortunately is still closed.

For Chinese food, the most authentic are East Ocean along Macapagal Avenue and Choi’s in Annapolis Street and Gloria Maris, both in the Greenhills area. For those who like pasta, they should try Lusso in Greenbelt 5 and the private club, Manila House.

In terms of fine dining, the best is the Michelin-rated Antonio’s in Tagaytay. For Spanish food, I personally highly recommend the Las Flores chain especially in Alabang and Pintxos in Alabang Hills. For eclectic food, my go-to restaurants are Bamba Bistro in BF Homes and Bizu in Alabang Town Center.

For specialized food, I like the hot chocolate and baguette in Paul’s. For hot pot, it’s Shabu Shabu in SM Aura.

Last but certainly not least are my favorite coffee shops: Because in BGC and Exchange Alley in Molito, Alabang. I am sure most of my readers will have their own favorite places. But we can all agree that there is a bountiful number of great places to eat in the Philippines.

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