Party on a Plate

CEBU, Philippines —  Executive chefs are constantly on the move. And I was pleasantly surprised when French Chef Jean Louis Leon was recently introduced by Movenpick Hotel Mactan Island Cebu. His remarkable artistry and prowess gave me a lasting impression when I met him at his Bocas Moderne Patisserie in Cebu a few years ago.

It is easy to be captivated by this jolly chef who considers “the unusual as usual.” A native of Brittany in the Northwest of France, he was born into the culture of food with a butcher for a dad and a mom who worked in a restaurant. He has 25 years of culinary experience from upscale hotels and resorts in Europe and Asia.

At the hotel’s chic Ibiza, Frozen Rosé dispensed from a “slushee” machine welcomed our anxious taste buds. F&B manager Jeryl Tio explained that Manny O’s Agapito Rosé was mixed with strawberry coulis and then frozen. I first tried Frosé in Daniel Boulud Bistro in New York City served by my mixologist daughter Patricia, who explained that alcohol has a very low freezing point so sugar must be added. Patricia’s Frosé uses Lillet Rosé and Lillet Blanc, aperitif wines made from Bordeau grapes with macerated fruit liqueurs.

The playful Chef Jean Louis announced that his introductory menu was a surprise when asked for it. We played along, with eager excitement. The first course, Seafood Plate, was a visual party delight – a medley of Squid tossed in tapenade (Provencal dip of black olives, capers and anchovies), Prawns with avocado oil and citrus dressing, beet-cured Salmon with mustard-dill sauce and squid ink Sponge Cake topped with a gold leaf. Freshness bursting in our mouths with complementing flavors! Chef Jean Louis, in his crisp French accent, took the time to explain each dish that was served.

Bicol Express Pork was prepared by one of his sous chefs, Rick Baluyut, who hails from Bicol. Tender pork pieces in creamy coconut milk had a hint of spiciness, unlike the   typical dish with burning chili hot flavor. Soft-boiled egg completed the dish. It would have been perfect with steamed rice but that would leave us no room for the other dishes. Churrasco-Style Angus Rib Eye was festive served with polenta topped with a chunk of Parmesan, béarnaise sauce, grilled baby asparagus and carrot. The rib eye was made tastier with emulsified jus enhanced with truffle oil.

Dessert was signature Chef Jean Louis that brought me back to his Bocas Patisserie – Yuzu Bavarois, a mousse-flan creation of custard cream and yuzu paste with gelatin and whipped cream on a bed of joconde (French almond biscuit). Yuzu is a kind of Japanese citrus fruit. Chef further elaborated that using a velvet spray, he “flocked” – a technique used to create fine velvety coating – the mousse-flan with cocoa butter. Eye-popping effect!

Movenpick’s banquets and parties promise to be a celebration all the time with sensational culinary creations of Chef Jean Louis Leon! - Aissa Arambulo-de la Cruz