Fun at Fung's

CEBU, Philippines - It is a noodle house that serves dim sum, hot pot, congee, noodles and many other Chinese specialties. This restaurant prides of "authentic Hong Kong flavor at affordable prices." It has two branches; the first is at the SSY Business Center, Salinas Drive, Lahug Cebu (right across JY Square; phone 260-8565) and the second is at Crossroads, Banilad (phone 262-0430).

 A Chinese meal is generally structured with dishes served at the center of the table and each person is given a small plate to hold the food which he picks from the shared dishes. It is this element of sharing that makes a Chinese dinner interesting, most especially if you are in the company of friends who were batch mates from USP HS 1972.

Danny Tiu, a balikbayan from New Jersey searched the old eating grounds he used to frequent and found that many are gone. The ones left standing were serving inferior imitations of past favorites. Upcoming food guru Patrick Pangilinan pointed to places where substitutes might be uncovered. Herbert Uy was my neighbor in Parian and we had fun reminiscing about the "bah-chàng," "bah ho" and the King's Apa Factory along Bonifacio Street.

I conferred with Fung Noodle House's Robert Young, Captain/Maitre'd/PR, all rolled into one, what dishes to taste and I made a request that Sweet and Sour Pork should be included because this dish is the quintessential Cebuano favorite, and dim sum may be served as appetizer. The latter food group awakens food memories of a culinary journey to Hong Kong nearly 40 years ago.

We opened a bottle of rum, the Don Papa, and then the following dishes were served: "Siao Long Pao," "Kouchay" Dumplings, "Hakaw," Shrimp Siomai, Beef Balls, and Radish Cake. Indeed, just like in Hong Kong, but my friends and I  did not have to incur  pesky travel cost in order to eat this type of food!

The cold cuts, the "3 Kind Combination Cold Cuts" - Soy Chicken, Soy Beef & Jelly Fish, were then served; followed by the Mixed Seafood in Squash Paste Soup and the Sweet and Sour Pork. I like thick soups because they are filling specially if there's a limited number of dishes; and the essence of the sweet and sour dish transports me back to the environs of the previous restaurant where the Chef, Mr. Fung, used to work for a very long time.

Four more dishes were served: Beef Tenderloins Tips with Black Pepper, Fukien Fried Rice, Fish Fillet with XO Sauce, and the Fried Noodle with Pork Asado and Taugi. The beef came as a surprise because it was tender like cotton candy and the flavors were layered with the black pepper spiciness occuring at the tail end. Your favorite food reviewer has not tasted these layers of flavors from a dish with a single ingredient for a long time!

I usually do not eat rice in a banquet because it is too filling, but the Fukien Fried Rice did not look like regular fried rice. It looks more like the toppings on a bowl of steamed fried rice but served on a large plate. A fellow food writer, Jigs Arquiza, once said that the "steamed fried rice" of another restaurant should be classified as Filipino food since it is tasty, unique because it is not found elsewhere and it has stood the test of time. Well, I have finally found its ancestors, excuse me, and the Fukien Fried Rice of Fung's Noodle House is the father.

It is a problem to select what dishes to order unless you have the expertise, so it is better to take a look at the Set Menus and let the price be the basis for your selection. The tables are prepared for eight, ten or 12 persons at Fung's restaurant in Crossroads, and up to 120 persons can be seated comfortably. The prices range from 2,388 to 9,888 pesos. Just be sure all your guests come or you will have Chinese leftovers for breakfast. (FREEMAN)