Difficult times

We went on a hectic swing of wet markets in Laguna, Batangas and Cavite. It opened our eyes (and yes, ears) to the plight of vendors as well as homemakers who are now challenged to get nutritious food with what little value is left of the weakening peso. Even in far-flung areas, the price of pork has gone up to between P135 and P140 a kilo; beef at P160, chicken at P90–surely Metro Manila rates. Shocking was that the lowly ayungin was selling at P300 a kilo and prawns at P450 a kilo. But do not despair, some foodstuff are still much cheaper: tomatoes between P10 and P20 a kilo, small galunggong (really tiny) P30 a kilo and bananas at P1.20 each.

The markets–from Sta Cruz, Laguna to Binakayan, Cavite–all need more attention (and concern) from municipal authorities. Except for the big one in San Pablo City, which we found neat and dry, every one of those we visited was dirty, murky with lots of litter all around (especially the Binakayan market). One lovely market, by way of scenery, is that in Talisay. It faces the sea and is therefore rather scenic, but with a lot of basura! Most have the usual carinderias, where ulam is sold from P10 to P15 a serving.

Most of the markets are multi-structure complexes. In Sta. Cruz we had our first encounter with the so-called Milled Rice, ranging from ordinary to the well milled. No one could explain what the term meant, but we were told that they are the NFA variety. Price is from P17 to P20 a kilo. Tilapia seems to be the most popular catch, some were still jumping in batyas full of water and selling from P70 a kilo. In Batangas, we missed the legendary atun. If found at all this would cost from P1,500 to P2,000 a kilo! We remember having this for lunch at Hapag Kainan in Lipa for P350 a serving of Ulo Sinigang, Tawilis, originally from P40 a kilo, is now P100. Among the good buys are local garlic (small) at P60 a kilo, fresh camias (dry them for cooking tulingan) at P20 a kilo, sekyo (the ayungin look-alike) at P20 a kilo, fresh pinipig at P15 a cup, small bangus for making sardines at P60 a kilo. The joy of provincial wet markets is finding lots and lots of kakanins, like maja blanca at P15 for two pieces, lots of calamay and suman Batangas (P35 for 12 pieces).

Food Stops. Dencio’s in Tagaytay never fails to delight diners with their sisig. At Aviles in Calamba, one can’t go wrong with the tender bulalo in steaming broth. At the beautifully rustic (great place for seminars) Kay Inay Casa San Pablo in Barangay San Roque, we were introduced to kulawo, a salad of eggplants with coco milk, and pipian, a chicken dish done like kare-kare. Breakfast fare included adobo binalot sa kanin and chocolate with roasted pinipig. Try this, you’ll love it. In one of our stops, we had ampalaya with mushrooms. In Taal, we could not resist the saucer-size bibingka from D’Lover’s Line.

And then there is Casa-Rap on Kilometer 90 in San Jose, Batangas, a tropical garden that serves food from natural ingredients. A perfect setting for nature tripping and a hearty meal at either P199 or P299. Reservations are accepted, but dinner must be for at least six persons. Lomi is the great comfort food here. Snacks are from P45 a serving. Sold here are bottled specialties from Good Shepherd: Bahay Pastulan’s Tawilis in Olive Oil (P85), Bagoong San Juan Batangas (P100) and Roselle Jams (P65).

There’s nothing like private homes to get the real culinary feel (taste?) of a town. At the Aguirre home in Binakayan, the gentleman of the house makes his bagoong with slices of Chinese ham and sausages. The added texture and flavor make it rather international. Babe’s Casava Bibingka is pleasantly multi-flavored with nata, macapuno and nangka (P400 a big tray). At the Tagle home in Kawit, we had what would equal Biñan’s kutsinta, the tuklong variety. They own Dimples’ Bake Shop which has an extensive line of breads, rolls, pizza and donuts and the Café Marcello managed by a daughter-in-law who is a trained chef. The offerings are varied, from lechon kawali to US Angus prime rib. The selection of coffee blends is also impressive. Go on a food trip, you’ll have fun!