The (He)ART of Natori

Her femininity and fragile frame belie the steel backbone of investment banker-turned-designer Josie Cruz Natori, the first Filipina to establish a world-class New York-based brand, Natori. In Japanese, natori means “the highest form of art.”

“It’s a dog-eat-dog world out there, competition is cutthroat. So if you don’t like what you’re doing you better get out,” says Josie. After 30 years in the business, Josie sometimes feels “exhausted,” but never burn-out.

In the past 35 years, 30 of which were spent in the world of design, Josie has assumed more than just her husband Ken’s name. She assumed its meaning. She has, indeed, made every Natori on the rack a natori.

Josie’s femininity embroiders her life, the fabric of which is soft, velvety, but not wispy –– it can and has withstood the elements, lace embroidery intact.

“I come from a family of very strong women. My grandmother Josefa Almeda was a very strong woman and I was the eldest of 33 grandchildren. I grew up in an atmosphere where there were a lot of expectations. My father (Felipe Cruz) used to call my grandmother supreme commander-in-chief, and my mother (Angelita) was the commander-in-chief.”

Having come from a home where the hand that rocked the cradle held the purse-strings, Josie, even in America, was never daunted. “No one stopped me from becoming whatever I wanted to be. I had no feelings of inferiority. I never had the feeling that I was less than the men. I always felt that I could be what I wanted to be. Nobody could stop me.”

Her confidence and her lola’s entrepreneurial legacy encouraged her to think out of the box. Taking a break from Wall Street (she was the first female vice president of investment banking at Merrill Lynch) she presented some hand-embroidered Philippine-made blouses to a buyer at Bloomingdale’s, who suggested that Josie lengthen the blouses and turn them into nightshirts. They were such a hit that soon, Josie had to kiss investment banking goodbye.

Turning an asset of her countrymen –– dainty craftsmanship –– into her strength, Josie would then lace the fashion world with a whole new way of dressing. From embroidered blouses, Josie turned inward to lingerie, and from that day on, fashionable women never took their lingerie for granted again. It became okay to let your slip show ––  as long as it was a Natori.

“Lingerie,” says Josie, who learned to play the piano at the age of four, “is an expression of yourself. If you don’t feel good about yourself, you wear your crappy stuff. Lingerie is femininity.”

Why should a woman invest in lingerie? “Because like fragrance, it’s the closest thing to touch your skin,” she smiles, a dimple peeping from behind a lock of her Paris-cut hair.

“If you were to ask me my two greatest assets, I would say number one, my being a woman and two, my being a Filipina,” says the 88-lb. Josie. And Josie tells us she keeps her svelte figure by usually skipping lunch and she limited herself to Caesars Salad during our lunch yesterday with Nokia GM William Hamilton-Whyte at the Makati Shangri-La.

Last year, in celebration of International Women’s Day, Josie was conferred by President Arroyo the Order of Lakandula. Despite her numerous awards and her global business (which now has four lines of lingerie, Josie Natori, Natori, Josie and Cruz), Josie, who employs 1,000 workers and sub-contractors in her Philippine factory, doesn’t want to be remembered for the name she has made in design.

“I think that my life and everything in my life is a means to an end. And to me the end is making a difference in people’s lives. Whatever you do, it’s like giving back. I don’t want to be known for what I have done in fashion, I want to be known for making a difference in the lives of others.”

Beautiful and feminine as lace. Strong as steel. So natori.

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Josie came to our lunch in a black kimono top, accented by gold choker from India. On one dainty hand was a Nokia 8800 Sapphire Arte –– her connection to the world.

Fashion and technology are to be fused as Nokia co-presents The Art of Natori, a Gala Dinner and Benefit Show tomorrow at the Makati Shangri-La. As a special collaboration, Nokia invited Josie to design the elegant pouch for the Nokia 8800 Sapphire Arte, which ladies of high esteem can use as a fitting accessory. “Nokia believes in the talent and integrity of the global Filipino –– exemplified by Josie Natori and we are honored to be part of this cause-oriented event,” said Hamilton-Whyte.

The Art of Natori is composed of many “Icons.” One of the most important Natori Icons is the Dragon. For the black satin phone pouch, Josie chose to embroider the Dragon in a circular motif. The symbolic meaning of the Dragon, which represents “strength” is made even stronger when put into the circular motif –– “the eternal circle.” By choosing the Dragon icon, Josie Natori combines the “strength” of two great brands in a Natori/Nokia collaboration. The phone pouch is that perfect little gift of indulgence –– it just makes you feel good to have as well as its practical nature –– the best possible place to keep your phone.

Josie Natori’s work reflects her sublime appreciation for what is beautiful, elegant and priceless –– executed in highest standards.

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Josie finds the local art and fashion scene as lively as the political scene. She finds Greenbelt 5 especially “stimulating.” For now, New York is home, but in the Philippines lies the heart of Josie Natori.

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