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It’s October in Jakarta, and the noticeable buzz of fashion has hit the streets. Jakarta Fashion Week is here again, and what a rush it is.

Boasting dozens of designers and hundreds of brands, fashion week in this town can be a dizzying swirl of not just shows, but blitzes, media promotions, marketing gimmicks and, yes, with the advent of a new generation, content creators and influencers. Everybody and their social-climbing relatives are here to see and be seen, and maybe, just maybe, make it in the scene.

This year though, the digital age reigns supreme. TikTok Shop, after its Tokopedia acquisition, made its fashion week debut by sponsoring its very own revue. Local brands that might not yet qualify as luxury labels, but have gained massive followings on the platform (and of course, incredible sales performance), were selected by TikTok to further their campaigns.

These homegrown labels, or even what just might be boiled down into popular points-of-sale, might not make the cut for hoity-toity Cruellas, but in an industry where what moves, wins, TikTok is making a very good case for sponsoring local tastes. We would be so lucky if we had something similar. Facebook live selling seems like the only viable avenue we have for small start-ups.

For the pure bred fashionistas, however, there’s plenty to drool over. Biasa, the label established by Italian doyenne Susanna Perini (now a naturalized Indonesian), was the highlight of Wednesday evening, showing a strong resort collection of frilly whites and dreamy pastels.

Danny Satriadi unleashed intricate draperies that boasted of rich fabrics and extensive detailing. Lace, silk, tulle and other sumptuous materials dripped and glittered, tassels popped up unexpectedly on bare backs, and hair ornaments lent an extra dramatic oomph to traditional finery.

Clutching rattan rooster purses, models handpicked by edgy label Moral sported traditional fabrics in non-traditional cuts, offset with spiky detailing and intense embroidery. Aquamarine corrals completed the jewelry showcase, with designer Andandika Surasetja parlaying his trademark silk preference into strong ensembles.

The futuristic ‘Dika’ Surasetja, who is more used to playing with PVC, was tasked this time to work with native fabrics and local communities, and interweave what he could find inspiration from into his designs --and what a success that challenge was. Moral became a true moral lesson in marrying tradition and innovation.

Strong support from corporate and local government sponsors was evident. The toothpaste brand Pepsodent hosted a fashion show by three favorite couturiers (Studio Vian, Julianto, and Ernesto Abram), and toothy smiles were de rigeur. The Province of Kelamantan put forth its own bet in Ayu Dyah Andari.

Day after day passed with the art of clothes being venerated, and with the gamut running from flippant frills and wispy almost-nothings to elegant slinky wear and heavily encrusted and beaded gowns. Naturally, batik and ikat were present, either as a whole collection or popping up in small details here and there. Each designer had their own forte (and fan club), which really just brings to mind about how far women have come, wielding the power of choice in adorning themselves. Or not.

For decades, one woman has championed Indonesian fashion, whether through her Dewi magazine empire or through Jakarta Fashion Week. Svida Alisjahbana, a force of nature all by herself, has stamped her mark onto the fickle fashion industry, what with constantly creating opportunities for young designers or networking with European or American chambers waving the Indonesian flag.

There’s no such thing as resting on your laurels with this woman, a lesson we should take to heart. The digital age, political upheavals, trade wars, artificial intelligence --all these have to be navigated, and vanquished. Armed with the right outfit, she can indeed conquer all.

Lessons to be learned from our neighbor.