Future Perfect
Burberry
MANILA, Philippines - No other British house brings the future of #LFW closer to the fore — or fashion as we know it, one could argue — quite like Christopher Bailey’s innovative turn at Burberry. The designer crystallizes the industry obsession with “see now, buy now” with his most recent outing, dubbed fall/winter 2016, with a quintessentially British collection, quintessentially Burberry. A mélange of Edwardian influences are mixed with boudoir-inspired pajamas — ruffled collars, accordion pleating and pirate blousons take center stage; military passementerie get a contemporary spin, adorned over shearling jackets and brocade sheathes.
Slip Stream
Marques’Almeida
Design duo Paulo Almeida and Marta Marques offer a mash-up of street-inspired influences for their spring/summer 2017 collection. At their eponymous label, a punk meets baroque sensibility makes a distinct impression right from the get-go — a brocade slip layered over a T-shirt with an organza leg-o-mutton sleeve opens the show. The duo reimagines their usual mien of slashed denims and unfinished hems with an unlikely mélange of laces, metallics, denims and silks — all riveted, slashed and laced-up, in true Marques’Almeida fashion.
A Ship To Wreck
Erdem
Erdem Moralioglu told the tale of a sunken wardrobe for his spring/summer 2017 offering. The recovered trunks of lady-in-waiting Jean Ker from 1642, Countess of Roxburghe, was the inspiration for a line of ruffle-collared dresses, ribbon-fastened jackets and shirred brocades. A deep-red broderie anglaise confection, styled with a black leather bucket hat, stood out from the lineup.
Tinker Tailor
Christopher Kane
Christopher Kane brings his signature brand of subversive style for his spring/summer 2017 collection, titled “Make Do and Mend” — a riff on the 1940s British directive for women to make do with the clothes on their backs, mending them to last longer. The look is fluid deconstruction; dark-edged broderie anglaise adds a soft and hard dimension to classic plissé skirts and body-con lace sheathes, sleek lamé dresses and crushed velvets for evening; patchwork Lurex and punchy prints round out his offerings for spring.
Crimson Peak
Simone Rocha
Designer Simone Rocha continues her label’s mien of studied romance — a continuation of her signature lace confections and sheer layers. It’s always a specific kind of froth, with a wraith-like undercurrent — Simone Rocha’s woman is almost always evocative of the ethereal. For spring/summer 2017, the mood was knotted dresses in immaculate whites, slashed and shirred sheathes in oxblood prints, rounded out by voluminous coats in sheer fabrics, layered and flounced.