The passion and imagination of Chef Izzy

CEBU, Philippines - Cebu is the culinary Mecca of the Southern Philippines, and every now and then new dining venues emerge. One of the latest additions to the city's restaurants roster is the Kayu Restaurant and Bar located at Rockwell, 32 Sanson Road, in Lahug (phone 516-5842). The person behind it is entrepreneur Chef Izzy Francis Sy, who graduated from the Culinary Institute of America and has worked under the tutelage of former Iron Chef Japan, Masaharu Morimoto, in Napa Valley, California.

Chef Izzy said that the restaurant's name "Kayu" is actually the Cebuano word for "fire." He had to make it clear since many people, including myself, thought that it was a Japanese word and the house cuisine was Japanese. Select members of the press were invited to either the cocktails or the media lunch, and I had a slight advantage - being invited to both.

The Appetizers served during lunch were Mushroom and Eggplant Tempura, Garden Canvass, Wedge Caesar, Smoked Salad, Quinoa Salad, Clam Chowder, Fish Taco, Chorizo and Oysters, and Grilled Flatbread. Chef Izzy's menu was very generous and I knew beforehand that my palate would be very busy at that lunch.

Lately, I have observed that two general types of the Cebuano taste have evolved: that of the Baby Boomers, born between the years 1946 and 1964 (now 52 to 70 years old), and that of the Millennials or Gen Y, born in the early 1980s to the early 2000s. The use of chilies is not acceptable to many Baby Boomers but the Millennials have taken tolerance - even a liking - to it. I have yet to define the taste preference of Generation X or Gen X, born in the late 1960s to the early 1980s.

My favorite Appetizers were the Wedge Caesar (Romaine, Anchovy Aioli, Scotch Egg and Parmesan Crisps), while some of my millennial media colleagues loved the Grilled Flatbread (with butter chicken). It was also my first taste of a Quinoa Salad.

Entrées were Glazed Salmon, Shrimp Pasta, Duck Confit, Pork Belly, Bánh-mì Monte Cristo, Poached Red Snapper and Kayu Skillet. My favorite meats being duck and beef, it came as no surprise that the Duck Confit (Strawberry Braised Cabbage, Soybean Cassoulet) was my favorite on that lunch. But I ate only half teaspoon of the Cassoulet and finger-size duck meat, because as I got busy taking the photos of the dishes the Duck Confit quickly disappeared.

The sandwich, Bánh-mì Monte Cristo (Chili Pork, Pickled Vegetables, Chili Mayonnaise) stirred memories of a birthday celebration in Ho Chi Minh City - all because of the very tasty sandwich. Our stay in Las Vegas was a food trip for delicious steaks and that's exactly what the Kayu Skillet (US Angus) was.

Desserts were Chocolate Fix, Passion Fruit Tart, Banana Mousse, Nutella Cheesecake and Sizzling Caramel Bar.

I was later asked by friends about the cuisine served at Kayu Restaurant. I told them that the dishes served there were a collection of the personal favorites of Chef Francis Sy. You may call it fusion or modernist California cuisine but whatever the label, Chef Izzy does it, excuse me, with passion and imagination! (FREEMAN)