Not all lechons are created equal

CEBU, Philippines -  The lechon is whole pig roasted over burning charcoal. It has been a special delicacy in the country since the beginning of Philippine history. The chronicles of the historian Antonio Pigafetta have it that lechon was served to Ferdinand Magellan upon the explorer's arrival in Cebu in 1521.

Lechon is not really a Filipino invention and neither is it exclusive to the Philippines. In countries where pork is consumed, there is always lechon or a type of roasted pig served. My favorite TV host, Jessica Soho in "Kapuso Mo, Jessica Soho," quoted Time Magazine declaring that lechon cooked in Cebu is the best pig in Asia.

It starts with a live pig that has no health issues and has sufficient fat because this is what gives the lechon its succulent and delightful taste. The pig's diet determines its kind of fat; pigs in Luzon are fed rice bran or "tahup," resulting in a rather firm fat in the lechon, while pigs in the Visayas eat coconut meat that produces a soft type of fat which melts when the lechon is chopped.

Native pigs cooked as lechon taste better compared to the hybrids, because native pigs are 120 days old when these reach slaughter weight - 15 kilos - and the flesh are less watery and has more dry matter. Hybrid pigs are only 35 days old at that weight; the meat contains more water and less dry matter. It is dry matter, including fat, that gives the lechon better flavor.

Commercial lechon producers in Cebu, like Rico Dionson of Rico's Lechon, have their own secret blend of spices for seasoning the slaughtered pig before roasting, because Cebu lechon is served without any sauce. Rico, who hails from humble beginning as "masyador" in a cockpit, relates that when he sold his first lechon he asked the customer what he (the customer) thought of the taste. He recalls that it was too salty that if water was added, it would be like seawater!

In his embarrassment, Rico meekly offered to replace the lechon and made the necessary adjustments - and, as the saying goes, the rest is history. With a little help from friends who introduced him, excuse me, to President Joseph Estrada, he was hired to cook lechon right at the Malacañang Palace.

Rico's Lechon recently opened his newest branch at Mactan Promenade, a few minutes' drive from the Mactan International Airport, in order to serve their customers in the area as well as departing passengers who want to bring lechon as "pasalubong" to family and friends back home.

Media members were invited during the opening and served several dishes - aside from Rico's Lechon: Bicol Express, Beef Caldereta, Halang-halang, Pancit Canton, Trio of Seaweed Salad and my most favored dish, Lechon Chili Rice, fried rice sautéed with garlic, bagoong, chilli and lechon. I had an interesting drink called Cucumansi Quencher, a combination of cucumber and calamansi, which I paired it with the Spicy Lechon and the two matched perfectly.

Rico's Lechon aims to be the "Da Best Gyud!" and it is up to customers to judge whether Rico's Lechon has achieved just that. (FREEMAN)