Nobu’s Filipino chefs: A tale of two kitchens

MANILA, Philippines - The illustrious Nobu brand, through the years, has taken on varied connotations.

Nobu the man represents his resilience to rise above misfortune as his restaurant was reduced to ashes. Nobu the philosophy believes in Japanese cuisine, fused with local ingredients. Nobu the hotel exudes the finest experience for the discerning traveler.

The brainchild of culinary legend Nobu Matsuhisa and Hollywood icon Robert De Niro, the luxury chain of Japanese restaurants has become a mainstay in upscale hotspots internationally. The hospitality trademark has likewise established two hotels at choice venues: Las Vegas and Manila. A third one, in Chicago, is set to be unveiled late 2017.

Today, the two faithful disciples – of note – of Nobu walk different paths, and yet, dream of the same objective: to spread an impressive impact in the competitive culinary world. Enter Ricky Estrellado and Michael de Jesus – both multi-awarded chefs under the Nobu banner.

Ricky, a veteran of 22 years, has since trained staff and apprentices at Nobu Next Door in 1998, and Nobu Las Vegas in 1999. Ever since 2005, he has headed Nobu New York and Nobu Next Door as its executive chef.

On the other hand, Michael, with 16 years in the industry, has earned his stripes, from sous chef of Nobu Los Angeles, to chef de cuisine in Nobu Las Vegas, and finally head chef at Nobu Manila since January 2016.

Michael and Ricky recently successfully collaborated on a two-night gastronomic Omakase dinner – essentially, Chef’s Choice – at the Nobu Hotel Manila, City of Dreams Complex.

As Filipinos, the challenge was to “Nobu-tize” food – to blend and compliment local Pinoy ingredients with Japanese recipes, giving credit to Master Nobu’s distinct, singular style.

STARweek sat down with the chefs to find out what’s cooking – in their kitchens and in their lives.

It began with one fateful comment from a French chef of distinction: “You are just a kitchen manager, because you simply copy recipes. A genuine chef creates dishes.”

The very next day, Michael de Jesus resigned from his high-paying job, responsible for corporate restaurants, and started on a new path, which initially paid $10 an hour.

Born in Manila, he comes from a family of politicians and civil engineers on his mother’s side originally from Ilocos Norte, and physicians and farmers among his father’s kin from Zambales. His fondest childhood recollection centers on their cherished family time, mainly busily cooking and happily sharing meals together. As they enjoyed what was served, the next menu had already been planned out.

Even before he learned how to bike, he found himself assisting in the preparation of rice, simple dishes with sardines and beef with onions – all this was a big chore for him.

When his father was assigned to Nigeria, he would introduce Michael to brand new culinary horizons, and encouraged him to sample different sets of not-so-familiar tastes. Due to the new-found influence and inspiration, the son now considers it as a sparked interest.

Michael initially wished to attend either the California Polytechnic State University or the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, to become a pilot, even perhaps an aerospace engineer. Unfortunately, eyesight deficiencies meant that career option was sealed off. After graduation from the California School of Culinary Arts in Pasadena, he focused all his efforts on the food industry.

Michael divulges his two role models in the culinary arena: Alain Ducasse, the first restaurateur to carry three Michelin stars in three different cities, and Nobu Matsuhisa, known for his admirable fusion of Japanese and Peruvian elements.

“My profession started to take off,” he shares, when “one fine day, my French boss tasted several sauces and summoned whoever made them – me. He then announced that I would now make the sauces at work.”

One of his proudest moments was when he was promoted to saucier at the Victoria Club in Riverside, California, the oldest country club west of the Mississippi.

With his expertise, grit and determination, Michael worked up from sous chef at Nobu Los Angeles, chef de cuisine at Nobu Las Vegas and he now dons the title of head chef at Nobu Manila.

His current position allows him to infuse Filipino ingredients and methods into Nobu-style menu items, which results in an exceptional and unique taste experience for both foreign and Filipino palates.

Armed with garlic, his favorite ingredient, and his personal set of Global knives, a Japanese kitchen blade – a gift from his mother – he is driven to create unforgettable, beautiful remembrances for his customers through the endearing magic of food. “Whenever I would eat my mother’s specialty – my favorite arroz caldo – I instantly remember her with fondness. Similarly, I want my diners to reminisce pleasant impressions whenever they taste my creations,” he admits.

He hopes to someday elevate Philippine cuisine to a never-before-seen level. “That’s my ultimate dream,” he professes.

If given the privilege to cook for anyone, he discloses that he would choose to put together a feast for his family and friends – his favorite patrons.

“In fact, when my parents visited Nobu for the first time, I prepared a variety of courses. They normally do not eat raw food, so can you imagine the joy it gave me when they praised my yellowtail sushi?” he beams.

When asked to call to mind a recipe which he had difficulty mastering, Michael readily confesses it was the Ilocano classic pinakbet.

“I tried to replicate what my mother did – with or without adhering to strict measurements – yet the results were never the same. I believe it was because she really nurtured her ingredients with care and placed her heart into this particular dish,” he says.

Michael, whose comfort food is tacos, travels around the world, where a must-do activity is – obviously – EAT! “I want to immerse, envelop and experience myself into what the place has to offer.”

He admits that although he does not take pictures of the sites and attractions – much less of himself – he has a fascination to capture still photos of gelatos and cured ham – hanging in groceries, delis, supermarkets and mercados.

For those who aspire to become chefs, Michael warns: “Be ready to give up your time – you will work long hours on weekdays, weeknights and weekends. You won’t see your family as often. You will sacrifice your social life. If you’re willing to give all these up, perhaps, and only perhaps, even a maybe, you could be a successful chef.”

Years ago, Ricky Estrellado accompanied his father to a restaurant of a five-star hotel. He stared in awe at the entire scenario: the cutlery and glassware, plating and presentation, waiter anticipation and service, ambiance and atmosphere, and chef in toques who greeted pleased patrons. This visit kindled an undying curiosity and changed his life.

“I desperately wanted to study at the New York Restaurant School. An aunt, who lived within the state, learned of my ambitions, and she extended a gracious invitation,” Ricky narrates.

To make his adjustment in this center-of-the-world city less traumatic, a good Samaritan named Lorrie Reynoso, a descendant of the Reynoso clan of chefs, served as his teacher and mentor. He graduated at the top of Class 1994.

Moving on from a company that did airline catering, he began a stint at the acclaimed three-star Montrachet restaurant in Tribeca, owned by restaurateur par excellence Drew Nieporent. Eventually made an incorporator of Nobu New York, Drew brought along Ricky, who by then was likewise drawn in by one of his culinary idols – Nobu Matsuhisa himself.

Ricky’s deft touch continuously charmed the most discriminating diners and critics in The Big Apple, which led him to quickly climb the ranks – from prep cook to chef de cuisine and, finally, executive chef.

Along with his handy set of Japanese kitchen knives, he performs magic with the versatile baboy on a variety of dishes, wherein all parts of the pig may be used – face, hooves and even the skin!

He is driven by the reactions of those he cooks for: “Every single smile from our gratified customers feeds and fuels me. That fulfilment is priceless.”

In addition to Nobu, his current chief executive, his role model is Chris Gesualdi, the 2015 Culinary Educator of the Year awardee, whose truffle-crusted salmon was named one of the Top 10 Best Dishes in the US.

Internationally, he adores Japanese cuisine – all of it – and the tapas of Spain, upon which entire meals may be built.

With Ricky’s parents seemingly not easy to please or impress, his proudest moment was when they endlessly praised him as he took the helm of Nobu Next Door in 1998. “It was all so surreal.”

He has encountered several memorable customers.“When Muhamad Ali entered our doors, I was ecstatic, for no Filipino schoolboy could ever forget the Thrilla in Manila, as classes were called off,” he shares.

“I also remember the co-writer, director and star in the Academy Award-winning film Life is Beautiful, Roberto Benigni. Fellow frequenters acknowledged his presence, so he graciously rose up to his feet. But upon further prodding that not everyone could see him, he hesitantly stood upon an empty table – sans all settings – and took a deep bow.”

Nobu co-owner Robert De Niro and Japanese Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto, who has since achieved TV celebrity status, rounds out his list.

“Molecular gastronomy, along with baking pastries, are my weaknesses – for I consider it more of a science than anything else. I’m a true believer in the hands-on principle,” he reveals.

Considering his developed and evolved taste buds, Ricky is still particularly enamored with plain sisig, his all-time favorite. “My sister in Pampanga always prepares the best. And it just goes really well with drinks,” he laughs.

He occasionally indulges himself with Ben & Jerry’s Boom Chocolatta! Cookie Core ice cream. “I know it’s bad for me, but it’s sooooo good!” he confesses.

For relaxation, he follows the adventures of Anthony Bourdain on television, where he has learned so much – not just on food, but also on the destinations’ history and heritage, customs and traditions and, most importantly, the people.

He likewise keeps track of Nobu’s feats, for he has a series of documentaries on chefs around the Land of the Rising Sun. He looks forward to Gordon Ramsay’s show – not for his demos – but because he features guests who are real characters that provide entertainment and drama.

He dreams of attending the Food and Wine Classic in Aspen, Colorado, the three-day annual culinary event which showcases demonstrations, seminars, panel discussions and tastings. “Even Mr. Nobu always manages to be present,” he says.

In the future, filled with gleeful excitement, he discloses that he wants to collaborate with some 20 Pinoys he previously had worked with. “With all my former colleagues, I would love to create a gigantic homecoming party. The love of cooking pulled us all together, as we worked hand-in-hand, even perhaps molding each other’s careers.”

His list is exhaustive: Tom Bascon, who caters to discerning individuals in certain gated villages in the metropolis; then-executive chef at Nobu Hard Rocks, now-Iloilo-based Frank Forriceta, Marlowe Lauengco, executive chef at Nobu Lanai and Godfrey La Forteza, executive chef at the Crimson Hotel, who individually continue to whip up concoctions of desire; and Rex Soriano, Gilbert Pangilinan and Pierre Angeli Dee, co-partners at Kai Neo Restaurant in Greenbelt 5.

A food trend he would be thrilled to kick start are destination-driven treats, encouraged by Bobby’s Burger Place in Miami, which popularized the Cuban burger. “I want to do wonders with the simple and humble burger. For instance, Cebu would have slices of lechon. Ilocos, regional bagnet. Baguio, relished with vegetables. And even across the ocean, in Los Angeles, avocados. We should focus on available local ingredients,” he declares.

For those who plan to pursue the life of a chef, Ricky, whose simple and personal motto is “Do your best,” reiterates the message he recently delivered to a graduating class of would-be-chefs. “Be patient. Remember: we are not overnight sensations. Refrain from calling yourself a chef until you really truly are one. There is no timetable. You will know when, for it’s a personal eureka moment. Until then, soldier on.”