The Chinese Mark in Global Fashion

CEBU, Philippines — From Gucci to Dolce and Gabbana to Armani to Valentino, the major fashion brands of the world embrace the Chinese mark. International fashion is strewn with Chinese features – as wash paintings, Chinese characters, insects and flowers etc. These are found in major fashion collections for both men and women.

The artistic charm of the Chinese cannot be ignored. Chinese features such as the traditional Chinese garment ‘cheongsam’, totems of dragon and phoenix, as well as paper cutting are sources of inspiration for designs which often amaze the fashion world and initiate new trends. Plants from Chinese imagery, especially bamboo, are also common prints.

Fashion brands everywhere frequently get inspired by Chinese features. The Chinese mark is the inexhaustible source of inspiration for fashion designers. Curiously, it’s the ‘outsiders’ that have long taken advantage of the Chinese appeal; homeland Chinese designers have only recently joined in.

But as Chinese styles are increasingly sweeping across the global fashion industry, homeland Chinese brands are also enjoying increasing recognition around the world. During the 2017 London Fashion Scout Show, Chinese designers Chen Anqi, Su Renli, Li Xiao and Chen Xuzhi showcased their collections. Ricostru, the first brand of Chinese women’s garments which Giorgio Armani supports, released its collection at Spring/Summer 2017 Milan Fashion Show.

Last year, refined embroidery, a time-honored and exquisitely aesthetic craftsmanship, was utilized in the new collections of Fiyta watches. Patterns on the watches dial were based on classic Chinese cultural images, such as magpie, butterfly, cicada and fish – all rendered in unmistakable Chinese fashion. These were embroidered by Zhao Hongyu, a well-known embroidery artist and inheritor of China’s intangible cultural heritage.

The current ascent of Chinese designers seems to enjoy the backing of various sector. China’s First Lady has impressed the international community by wearing fashion designer Ma Ke’s collections. Hollywood also provides big support with its reflections – or rather refractions – of the Chinese mark. The aesthetic genealogy of the Asian-influenced clothes of Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel or Jean Paul Gaultier can be traced not to China, but the exaggerated styles sported in movies such as “Shanghai Express” and many others.

Starting in the latter half of the 20th century, China leads in the flooding of luxury goods and ideas from Asia to inspire the West. “Chinoiserie” is the Frenchified term for the influence of Chinese aesthetics on Western creativity – particularly in fashion. And yet fashion is only the looking glass through which to view “a fantastic pastiche of Chinese aesthetic and cultural traditions.” Chinese food has since conquered the palate of the world. And Chinese art pieces fill entire vaults of art collectors.

Ancient techniques and time-honored Chinese culture certainly add to the drawing power of international fashion, in a highly unique manner. It’s no surprise at all that everyone seems to be hopping on to the bandwagon. And why not? It looks really nice!