Dear Dapitan

CEBU, Philippines - I still couldn’t believe how I ended all buckled up inside that Dipolog-bound PAL Express flight. It was my first time to do a solo coverage for the paper. What bothered me most was that I was assigned not only as a photographer, but also tasked to do an article about Dapitan: a small city in Mindanao that is considered to be one of the major historical hubs of the country.

It was in history books in my younger years that the name Dapitan first came to my senses. It has been chronicled as historical because the city of Dapitan was once the haven of our national hero Dr. Jose Rizal, who was exiled to this little island in Mindanao. Even if the island was meant to be an un-walled prison for him, Dr. Rizal completely turned things around. Instead of being depressed, he turned the place into a refuge, finding love and peace for himself. And with that same reason, I wanted to find out for myself what made this island so significant to our national hero.

It all started with a simple invite from Apple Marie Agolong, Chair of the Committee on Tourism. She asked a small group of Cebu media practitioners to experience firsthand the revelry of the feast of their patron saint, Saint James the Greater. They dubbed the glorious event the Kinabayo Festival, in honor of the legendary horse-riding apparition of St. James.

Upon reaching Dipolog, we were met by Mr. Joseph Agolong, Ma’am Apple’s husband, who brought us to this Asian-inspired native resort by the bay named Harohoy sa Baybayon where we crashed for the whole three-day coverage. It was an appealing little resort that really fits the needs of middle class tourists or even backpackers. From there everything is just a walking distance away from the city’s renowned landmarks.

A few meters away is the long shoreline of the beautiful Dapitan Bay. Strategically placed along the boulevard are food stalls where one can surely have a hard time choosing what to eat. The boulevard is wide and clean and ideal for early morning and late afternoon walks with family and friends.

We took a speed boat to coast Dapitan’s shoreline. Strong winds brought large waves crashing in hard towards the cliffs, reminiscent of the picturesque views of Batanes, only smaller. Near the rustic Dapitan port, behind the docked ships and situated on a small hill, I saw an old white parola almost completely covered with trees. What a lovely sight!

It was almost six when we arrived at the Pulauan bridge in Sitio Antipolo, but amazingly it was still very bright. Then we saw: Kinilaw ug Inihaw sa Fishpond. Talk about literal names for a restaurant! It was at twilight when our hosts, the Agolongs, invited us to board this conjoined banca, complete with roof and monobloc chairs. As blue skies slowly melted into a pallete of crimson and lavender, we found ourselves slowly cruising along the Antipolo River. It felt like going through the murky waters of the Amazon River with all the mangrove trees concealing the strange lurking creatures in the dark. But that was just me. Everyone was just so busy sharing stories and jokes as we smoothly traversed the still and shallow waters. Along the way, we passed several houses on stilts. Even if darkness was seeping in, I could still make out the human figures fixing their bamboo fishing contraptions just below or near their homes. As evening officially came, a magical thing happened. In the distance, a faint glow of light emerged one after another. And this series of lights led us to this brightly lit wooden dock out of nowhere. Thus, the captivating 15-minute cruise ended, we had arrived.

At night, Kinilaw ug Inihaw sa Fishpond (KIF) restaurant is stunning. The fishpond’s still waters will become a canvas for the reflected warm colored lights that emanate from the traditional hut type dining areas. This gives out an enchanting effect and makes the whole dining ambiance more delightful. To top everything else the seafood line-up is unforgettable. The restaurant also offers the usual traditional Filipino dishes, but of course they make sure they put their own personal touch to it.

We all thought that that sumptuous dinner was to cap the night. But our hosts had something more – Gloria de Dapitan, a compact recreational plaza where a series of souvenir shops, bars and restaurants converged. There is also the arcade area for video game fanatics. What took me by surprise was the sight of a Theme Park similar to the major carnivals in Luzon. There are carousels, ferris wheels, bump cars, roller coaster rides and a whole lot more. With all its hi-tech and state of the art rides, who would’ve thought that something like this could be found in Mindanao? We wasted no time and tried the rides for ourselves. Our first day in Dapitan was truly a blast!

I woke up early the next day and decided to have a little stroll. My feet led me to this side of the boulevard where several bamboo structures, nipa huts, giant idols resembling fowls and different forms of sheds have been built side by side facing the channel where the Liburan and Dapitan Rivers connect to the sea. This show of ingenuity clearly reflects the people’s artistry.

Then, located at the banks of the Liburan River is the Dapitan Aquamarine Park (DAMPA). It’s another tourist destination where one can feast on delectable fresh seafood cuisine straight from the enclosed ponds along the river. There were bamboo stilt bridges built under the shade of mangrove trees where one can have an intimate encounter with nature. And just like in Bohol’s Loboc, there are floating restaurants that provide a pampering river tour. The Liburan River which comes from the word libut or to go around, is a meandering body of water that spans eight barangays surrounding the city proper.

After a heavy breakfast of prawns and sausages in the Agolong home, I strolled out once more. This time I was traversing the busy commercial district of barangay Bagting. Shops bearing all sorts of merchandise filled every block. I observed that people here still rely on firewood as almost every corner in the district are filled with them. On the outer part are the tiangges, a street side market offering a wide selection of fruits and vegetables from the neighboring mountain barangays.

Then it was time for another treat. I joined the rest of the gang for a 20-minute journey from Bagting to Barangay Taguilon, home to one of the most sought-after tourist destinations in the country – Dakak Park & Beach Resort. Being a first timer to the resort, I was absolutely awed by its charm. Who needs to go to Hawaii when we already have this gem in our midst? The majestic view of the 750-meter cove beachfront and backed by magnificent green hills is a breathtaking sight. First class cottages and different outdoor recreational facilities are available within well planned landscaped terrain of 15-hectare wooded land. Feeling like VIPs, we went on wild Jetski rides, then savored a divine lunch by the beach. Truly, Dakak has lived up to its name of being one of Dapitan’s well-kept treasures.

From Dakak’s powdery white sand beach, we were taken once again aboard a speed boat. We gradually negotiated strong afternoon winds and waves as we headed on to the adjacent Aliguay Island. The waters surrounding this small island are full of dolphins, but sadly they weren’t around. Nevertheless, we really enjoyed our stay there, especially with the shared stories of the local fisherfolk. A short walk through the fishing village affirmed that the people there are as beautiful as the island itself.

I ended my second day with a lone walk on Sta. Cruz beach, part of a neat stretch of beaches along Dapitan Bay. At the Sunset Boulevard, I watched lazily as the sun began its descent into the Sulu Sea.

My last day in the city proved to be the most significant one. I began with an early morning walk back to Barangay Bagting. I wanted to have a more in-depth immersion with the people on my final day of coverage. Thus, aside from just taking photos, I talked with some of them as they were busy doing their simple daily routines.

Then I proceed to the city plaza which the late Dr. Rizal helped to beautify. It has a rectilinear Spanish colonial layout and has retained its original design except for some minor add-ons. Within the plaza is Rizal’s monument as a doctor. It was built to commemorate Rizal’s profound contribution in medicine to the Dapitanons. A few steps away, is the old Kiosk which once served as a venue for social gatherings during Spanish times. Next to the plaza is the old St. James Church which is a replacement for the 1st ever church in Dapitan which collapsed in the 1800s. When I entered the church I was met by a gushing flow of women in wedding gowns and men in their barongs. I just missed a mass wedding! I asked to go up the belfry to take some aerial photos and I was in for a surprise. Down below, inside the city plaza, was a relief map of grass that was shaped in the form of the island of Mindanao. I didn’t notice it until I was on top. I was more astonished to know that Rizal made the map himself to help his pupils learn more about geography and history. Surrounding the plaza are old ancestral houses and structures that somehow reverberate with their glorious past.

It was almost noon when I rejoined the group and witnessed one of the most passionate shows of devotion ever. After the holy Mass on the Feast of St. James, the Greater, the whole church was filled with chants and yells honoring the Patron Saint. They were now celebrating the “Patunob” ritual, a traditional practice amongst Dapitanons to pass under the holy image of the Saint. The image was then brought outside the church to be received by the city’s Chief Executive and paraded towards the center of the plaza to be further venerated by the people. They call this practice “Sinug,” very similar to our own Sinulog. To be there in the middle of the vast frenzied crowd was a hair-raising experience. It was like Quiapo’s feast of the Black Nazarene but the only difference was the way the people aired their praise. From an elevated platform, I saw the earth shook as thousands of parpagayo and san fransico stalks were being raised, rattled and waved vigorously to the direction of the holy image. With thunderous cheers and chants, devotees unceasingly called the name of their beloved patron Saint. It was a captivating sight!

Of my three-day stay in the city, I could now tell why Dr. Rizal fell so much in love with it. It’s not just about the many wonderful sights of the land but of the warm, compassionate hearts of the Dapitanons that had won him over completely.

As I started my journey home, I leaned on the van’s glass window and watched an ongoing horse race on the beach. This was still part of the many lined-up activities for the Kinabayo Festival. As I watched the silhouette of the racing riders, I imagined the late Dr. Jose Rizal together with his young students leisurely galloping on their horses along the beautiful Dapitan bay. If only Rizal had lived long enough to see the growth of this cambric city as he envisioned it to be. I guess there might be a different version of his portrait etched on our one peso coin. Our dear national hero would be smiling.