That Bicol Magic Part 1

CEBU, Philippines – When I saw the Mayon Volcano some years back, during my first visit to Legazpi City

(Albay), I was not able to see the top as it was, as usual, covered with thick clouds. I was content to buy the photos for sale at the Cagsaua ruins (see cover photo). On my recent trip via Cebu Pacific, Mt. Mayon was again hiding her cone behind a crown of clouds.

Soon after arrival, we had a sumptuous merienda at the residence of Dr. Angelita Ago whose father, Dr. Damaceno Ago, owned the first travel agency in Legazpi. Then off we headed for Vitton Resort in Donsol, Sorsogon.

Meeting the Butanding

Our main purpose for this trip was a close encounter with the whale sharks that converge in the waters off Donsol Bay, from late December until early May every year. The whale shark (Rhincodon typus) is the largest fish on earth but it cannot bite nor chew because its teeth are very small. It feeds mostly on planktons, small fish, squid and invertebrate larvae. Despite its diet, it grows up to 18 meters and can weigh up to 34 tonnes. Yet, it takes 30 years before it breeds and females have long intervals between pregnancies, with less than 10 percent survival among its young. Being harmless, it is called “the gentle giant of the seas.”

From Bohol waters, these butandings migrated to Donsol because of the rich plankton blooms in the waters, as well as escaping from human invasion into their habitat through increasing hunt of whale sharks in Bohol. Thus, these gentle giants have afforded a better alternative livelihood for the fisher folk of Donsol: a lucrative ecotourism industry through whale shark viewing. Unfortunately for us, we saw only a few whale sharks as we were there before the high season. Yet, watching a few of them in the water was a lifetime experience, indeed!

The Sorsogon Hospitality

After high noon the next day, we were in Sorsogon City where we had a late, late lunch in Fernando’s Hotel, hosted by Mayor Leovic Dioneda of Sorsogon City. We were sorry to have missed the local press and television crew who were there to cover our visit.

The previous night, we had a lovely time marveling at those trees, bedecked with twinkling fireflies and bathe in dreamy moonshine along the magical Ogod River. We learned that fireflies are carnivorous, feeding on worms and snails on their preferred trees. Within weeks, they go to the fields to die, providing natural fertilizer. Female fireflies twinkle faster when mating. Oh, it was an enchanting night river cruise indeed!

Personally sheperding us throughout the tour was the gracious and indefatigable DOT Region 5 Director Maria “Nene” Ong-Ravanilla. After checking us in at Fernando’s Hotel, Dir. Nene led us to the Prieto-Diaz Mangrove Forest where we were hosted merienda by Mayor Boy Doma who answered our questions about his pride and joy: the people-managed 1,500 ha. mangrove forest.

We were shrieking with fright as naughty Tony Lee of Black Panda Travel & Tours tried to destabilize our small banca, in the manner that student visitors (paying P150.00 with three meals a day to learn about the ecosystem and enjoy the waters) tried to outdo each other in trying to capsize their bancas. Soon it was time to freshen up for our dinner at the Capitol hall, hosted by Sorsogon Gov. Sally A. Lee.