Come back home

MANILA, Philippines — In contextualizing herself as an apparel designer in 2017, it was important for Isabel Sicat to come back home.

Her new collection “Ibalik” — an atypical approach to “island dressing,” deconstructing the usual tropes of resort wear — is the product of a six-year “conversation” surrounding her time living and studying abroad, between then and now, choosing to return to the Philippines with the goal of establishing herself as a fashion designer based out of Manila. It’s a collection of pieces that feel especially “vital” from a young and urban perspective.

Armed with a double degree in political science from Brown University and apparel design from the prestigious Rhode Island School of Design, it was clear to Isabel that she had no intention of producing her work anywhere else but back home.

“My work is here in Manila. I plan to be here for as long as it makes sense,” shares the designer. “Going to RISD and being so close to NYC made me realize that, while I respect and understand it as a path for some, it did not make sense for me: I think that there is a wealth of potential in the Philippines and it would be a shame not to focus my work here.”

It’s a steadily growing trend we’ve been seeing with the next generation of Filipino talents — honing their craft abroad, cutting their teeth at major fashion brands, yet ultimately eschewing international opportunities for the capacity to re-contextualize themselves within a local setting. We saw this with Carl Jan Cruz and his internship at the 3D atelier for French house Céline; Stacy Rodriguez at NY-based Altuzarra; and now Isabel Sicat taking her work experience from Alexander Wang and US fast fashion chain Urban Outfitters to come back and establish herself in Manila.

We see it as putting value in heritage, about rooting yourself in a setting that informs you, with the hope of gaining a more global perspective — or, as Isabel succinctly puts it, “I am interested in understanding more about myself, my heritage and my work, and that means centering these visual discourses in a tropical sphere of production.” 

Building on her past oeuvre of machine knitwear in acid hues from her time at RISD to embroidered velvet tops in erotic motifs, “Ibalik” by Isabel Sicat is an exploration of both setting and settling in — a collection of non-gender-specific separates inspired by her rediscovery of Manila. YStyle sits down with the young designer and talks shop.

YSTYLE: Hello, Isabel! Can you tell us a little bit about your background? Design or otherwise?

ISABEL SICAT: I took a five-year dual degree program between Brown University (where I majored in political science) and RISD (where I studied apparel design). It was an incredibly consuming experience and I felt like I was running at full speed the entire time, but it allowed me to work in two entirely different mindsets and understand that my interests are vested in the language of visual discourse.

What would be your favorite takeaway from RISD?

The best thing I walked away with from there were the relationships with my fellow students. They inspired me every single day. Most specifically, with my partner Aiala.

As a designer, who would you say is the “Isabel Sicat” woman? Who are you making clothes for?

Myself! And whoever else’s interests (namely functionality, fun, the ability to dance without losing all of your valuables and still look cool while doing so) align with mine.

Can you walk us through your current collection “Ibalik”? What inspired you?

I made this collection as I was returning to Manila from six years abroad, re-familiarizing myself with the city as it now is, and understanding myself in this context. I was overwhelmed with inspiration every day — from the new friends I started making to the way I started seeing different, distinctly “Filipino” design elements align with my own aesthetic.

This is my understanding of “island wear” — not the typical tropical tropes of resort wear, but my own reality of being from Manila.

I was very fortunate to work with an incredible team of local photographers, models and stylists, and to shoot the collection in Escolta’s storied First United Building in tandem with the Open City and Manila Biennale team.

It is my return home.

What informs your eye as a designer?

There is so much beauty everywhere you look here! I am inspired by things like the packaging of the dried squid snack I had for merienda to the weird bootleg Nike Slides I found at Divisoria.

Can you walk us through the textiles you used in this collection? We noticed a distinct approach to your fabrications — be it slashed knits or your spliced, patchwork treatment to coats and trousers — what informed your process?

I have always had an interest in textile manipulation. For me, understanding what a fabric is capable of is central to the understanding of what silhouettes they can make: much of my creative process is rooted in construction and deconstruction. I like having control and creating my own textiles: it’s just another way to edit your palette and push your materials to their fullest potential.

Can you tell us about the 3D compartments built into your clothing?

I love going out and having adventures but I always end up losing my sh*t. The fanny packs were my solution. Integrating them into the collection is a reflection of an essential part of my daily routine (I never leave the house without one!) I had one I found at an ukay and embroidered “Koral Krusher,” and that became one of the cornerstone inspiration pieces of the work.  

What’s your favorite look from the collection?

(Taken aback): You gonna ask a parent who’s their favorite child?! Dang, gurl.

If you had to describe your collection in one word or a phrase, what would it be?

ME.

What’s next for you?

My partner Aiala and I are working on a much larger collaborative collection to debut in February 2018 at the inaugural Manila Biennale. Stay tuned. We’re giving it everything we’ve got. It’s gonna be… bongga!

Where can we find your pieces?

As of right now, the samples sit pretty in my studio or on my bod when I’m out dancing somewhere.

Photography by CENON NORIAL III

Styling by MAV BERNARDO & AIALA RICKARD

Makeup by Sylvina Lopez

Modeled by Anna Buquid, Cassie Reyes & Paulo Deoferio

Shot on location at First United Building in Escolta, in collaboration with #ManilaBiennale