Baguio when it rains

MANILA, Philippines — Baguio, though rightfully the Summer Capital of the Philippines, is more than just a destination for the summer. There are hidden blessings brought about by the rainy season. Drive up, and you’ll be surprised.

We left Manila close to midnight, when there was absolutely no traffic in the usually killer stretch that is EDSA, and the connecting expressways were a breeze. The initial climb was accented with the occasional raindrops, and it poured heavily upon reaching the top of the mountains – per PAGASA’s confirmation.

Right after sunrise, a breakfast like no other by chef Billy King greeted us at the veranda of The Manor of Camp John Hay. This is among my Top 3 Breakfast Buffets in the city, alongside Baguio Country Club with their oven-cooked bacon and Le Monet Hotel with their assortment of unique Filipino delicacies.

As the rain poured, the low, slow-moving fog crept into the food hall. In no rush at all, we chanced upon friends, all frequent Baguio visitors, and hopped from table to table to catch up with each other’s lives. There was more conversation than actual eating. Soon it was close to noon, and we wisely decided to skip lunch altogether.

Siesta time was bliss, more so since I had left my windows open for the cold breeze, as I closed my eyes to the muted sounds of rain drops.

At mid-afternoon, there was a deafening silence. The rain had stopped. With dark clouds still hovering above and umbrellas always in hand, we ventured out to the Philippine American Friendship Garden that features face-to-face statues of two presidents, Manuel L. Quezon and Abraham Lincoln. We were intrigued by a totem pole depicting historical figures such as the Battle of Manila Bay’s Admiral George Dewey, first Philippine president Emilio Aguinaldo, Governor-General William Howard Taft, Secretary of State John Milton Hay, overseer Lt. Col. Lyman Kennon and Gen. Douglas McArthur, who all symbolize the goodwill between the Filipinos and the Americans.

Crossing to a nearby hill is The Lost Cemetery of Negativism, a site to bury metaphorical negativities. A walkway leads to some fascinating gravestones with humorous and thought-provoking markers – Kant B. Done – Born: 2 January 1904, Died: 1 January 1904; Died Before He Started, or Doanna Set A. Precedent – His Passing Was That of a Precedent. You should definitely check these out.

As it rained once again, we made a run to the Bell House, a rustic old American-style home named after Maj. Gen. James Franklin Bell who designed it, together with several other structures in the camp.

The venue boasts of a panoramic 360-degree view of the sprawling, multi-tiered amphitheater, the 500-meter History Trail and the tranquil Secret Garden filled with flowers, which are all part of Camp John Hay’s very own historical core.

The drizzle finally let up, and it was time to attend the Saturday anticipated mass at the Saint Joseph the Worker Parish Church. It exuded an aura of fervent discipline, starting with the choir’s angelic voices and complemented by the parishoners’ responses loud and in unison. Communicants from pew after pew, row by row, came in great numbers. It was a sight to behold – a parish priest’s dream.

For dinner, we unanimously decided to dine at the good old Rose Bowl Steakhouse and Restaurant, the de-facto Chinese bistro in town, where almost everyone fell into a sentimental mode due to memories from the past in their former location at Harrison Road across Burnham Park.

Their classic menu of century egg platter, crabmeat soup and kropek, wontons and spring rolls, camaron rebosado and roast duck, sweet and sour pork and pata tim, chop suey and fried rice were worlds apart from modern pretentious cuisine. There were no fusion experiments involved – it was just honest-to-goodness Chinese food, accented by original and natural flavors, accompanied by piping hot tea and an assortment of fresh fruits, all served with efficient service.

Smiling descendants of the original owners we so-affectionately called the Nangs somehow recognized some of us after all these years, as they recalled having us at their old address.

We carefully navigated the slippery, wet road to The Manor, where we wound the day down by relaxing at the warm, crackling fireplace by The Piano Bar, as we shared stories of the Baguio of our youth and the glory days of the mom and pop shops at the delightful Session Road, unforgettable market finds and ghost hunting escapades, amidst the soothing and unobtrusive music. I noticed an old friend with his new wife, with eyes for no one else in the room, caressing each other once in a while, so very romantically.

Of course, no Filipino trip – no matter how near or far from home – would be complete without pasalubongs, or the art of supporting the local industries, as I like to call it. We set on a mini-excursion to the Baguio Cathedral Grounds Covered Court, where we had our fill of organic veggies and preserves, farmed and produced by local nuns.

Back at Le Chef Delicatessen at The Manor, we also picked up some best-selling items, including the iconic raisin bread – there’s a new twist to it that you should discover – moist banana bread, ham and cheese bread, Belgian chocolate gateau, crunchy choco pistachio and melt-in-your mouth blueberry cheesecake.

Upon invitation of our long-time friend Mitos Benitez-Yñiquez, we had a late lunch at Café Adriana, her newest culinary project. Our luncheon consisted of mixed fresh greens salad with various far-from-usual condiments, grilled steak entrée to your taste, paella Valenciana and dessert of crème brulee.

We finally departed for home, still amidst the rain. But as the scenery changed, so did the weather. The rain let up as we got nearer to the metro. By the time we got home around midnight, there was no sign of it at all.