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Discovering Central Europe: Journey to Slovakia & Poland

THE PEPPER MILL - Pepper Teehankee - The Philippine Star
Discovering Central Europe:  Journey to Slovakia & Poland

A view of the Bratislava Castle from the UFO observation deck. Photos by Pepper Teehankee on a Leica C Digital Camera

(Part 2)

After our breathtaking experience in Hungary, we then explored Bratislava. It is the capital of Slovakia, a country I had never been to before.

After our two-hour train ride from Budapest, our local tour guide Slavka Korcekova met our group at the train station in Bratislava.

I was excited to visit the famed Christmas markets on the main square in Bratislava’s historic center. There, I tasted traditional Christmas food and drinks and shopped for unique toys, handmade souvenirs and Christmas items. While strolling in the market, I found a beautiful string of naturally dried decorative potpourri (dried fruits tied with cinnamon sticks and bay leaves). It looked wonderful and smelled great but I (regrettably) did not buy it and, to this day, still wish I had bought it.

Bratislava, a small historical city with unique architecture and cuisine, is ideal for tourists to visit anytime of the year. People there are very friendly and helpful, too. Sarge Lacuesta and I decided to get one of those sausages being sold in the Christmas market. The grilled sausage we bought, name unknown to this day, was absolutely delicious. The vendor, upon finding out we were Filipino, spoke to us in Tagalog and boasted he knew a lot of Filipinos.

From Bratislava to High Tatras

The next day, we had more time exploring Bratislava’s historic center. We visited the UFO observation deck, which is 95 meters above ground. Apparently, the best views of Bratislava can be seen from there.

Our group learned that there are many Catholics living in Bratislava that’s why there are 11 Catholic churches in the city. There are also a lot of images of the Virgin Mary seen in public squares. One of the more impressive churches we went to was St. Martin’s Cathedral, the largest and one of the oldest churches in Bratislava. It is known especially for being the coronation church of the Kingdom of Hungary between 1563 and 1830.

We then took a van from Bratislava to High Tatras, the ski and spa town of Slovakia. We passed by one of the eight old articular wooden churches (that are collectively a UNESCO World Heritage Site) in Hronsek.  A short detour to this Lutheran church, built in 1725 in the form of a cross, was definitely worth it.

At the High Tatras region, there is a spa/hotel called AquaCity Poprad Športová. It has several thermal pools and is packed with tourists. Nearby is Hrebienok, a significant tourist and ski center above Starý Smokovec (Old Smokovec) in the southern slope of the Slavkovský Peak. This place is a true winter wonderland and our group could not stop taking photographs. The best hotel to stay there, though, is the  Grand Hotel Kempinski in Štrbské Pleso, the highest situated settlement in the Tatras Mountains.  This place exudes pure luxury and would be a wonderful home during the winter. After our lunch there, I had a cup of hot chocolate, perfect for the minus 13-degree Celsius weather outside.

Afternoon in Krakow

Our long van ride to Krakow did not dampen my excitement in exploring this city as it was my first time to be in Poland. It was late afternoon when we arrived in Krakow and our group was immediately whisked for a walking tour of one of the oldest cities in Poland.

The main Market Square is famous for its priceless historical monuments of culture and art. When we arrived at the Christmas market on the square, I immediately checked out local delicacies like kielbasa (sausages) and pierogi (stuffed dumplings). I had my first taste of Polish food at the funky yet adorable jazz bar Piano Rouge. 

We explored the historical center of Krakow, which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978, starting from the foot of Wawel Castle. This castle, the largest in Poland, is now an art museum.  

Upon learning that Poland is one of the best places to buy amber, I kindly asked our guide, albeit not part of our itinerary, to bring me to an amber store so I could buy the precious hardened tree sap.

We also went to the Jewish quarter, where we had our lunch. There, we saw where the Polish-American cosmetics entrepreneur    Helena Rubinstein was born. We also drove by the factory of Oskar Schindler, who is known for saving the lives of more than a thousand Jews during the Holocaust.

After exploring Krakow, our group went to the 13-century  Wieliczka Salt Mine, which is often referred to as “the Underground Salt Cathedral of Poland.” The salt mine reaches a depth of 327 meters and is over 287 kilometers long.

Inside the salt mine is the magnificent underground chapel called St. Kinga’s Chapel with chandeliers, floors and statues made of salt. It is worth noting that in 1978, the Wieliczka Salt Mine (along with the historic center of Krakow) was placed on the original list of 12 UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Amazing Warsaw

Warsaw was our destination the next day. This unique city was heavily bombed during World War II. I was completely amazed how the city was rebuilt brick by brick based on old photos and original pieces were gathered so these could be incorporated in the new buildings. An example of this is the Royal Castle, which was destroyed and rebuilt to its former glory. The paintings and furnishings inside were either donated or purchased. The most impressive paintings there included a pair of Rembrandts given by a Polish family.

The Royal Garden of Light at the Wilanów Palace is an open-air exhibition, where thousands of colorful diodes create sophisticated forms. Since last year, the Wilanów Garden has started to shine with a completely new installation ­­— The King’s Winter Garden. It is an elegant, sophisticated exhibition, directly referring to the palace’s architecture and history.

Don’t miss several Chopin concerts around Warsaw. If time permits, visit the Holy Cross Church, where Chopin’s heart was reportedly buried. Chocolate lovers should not skip a trip to the Wedel Chocolate shops that serve amazing Polish-made chocolates.

I spent three nights in Poland and it was certainly not enough for me!

(To be concluded)

(This Central European trip was organized by the Tourism Boards of Poland, Slovakia, the Czech Republic and Hungary. For more information, visit www.gotohungary.com, www.slovakia.travel, www.poland.travel and www.czechtourism.com. Check out www.turkishairlines.com.)

(Follow me on Instagram @pepperteehankee.)

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