Gender-neutral fashion

CEBU, Philippines — There was a time when girls dressed like girls and boys like boys. Skirts were exclusively for women and trousers were strictly for men. It was not limited to clothes, though; gender also dictated people’s hairstyles, manner of speech, and overall demeanor.

Times have since changed, and so do people’s mindsets and ways. In particular, the way people dress today is breaking the old rules, breaking the bounds of gender. Not to mention the emergence of the metrosexual lifestyle – straight men who rival the vanity of women.

In these past few years, fashion has become noticeably more fluid, more gender-neutral. Some call the trend “unisex,” while others use the term “androgynous.”  Fashion designers are combining men’s and women’s collections on the runway, labels “girls” and “boys” are disappearing on children’s clothes.

Today, established fashion brands are giving good attention to unisex wear. Some new brands, obviously seeing the market potential, are even focused on androgynous collections, like the streetwear-inspired label Wildfang. In clothing stores nowadays it’s becoming common to see loose fitting suits, slogan T-shirts, and tailored jackets that will do for both genders – neither overtly feminine nor masculine.

More and more people – especially the young – find gender-neutral pieces as more practical. It allows them more freedom for self-expression. It complements with the modern social concept of “no gender discrimination.”

People used to buy the same clothing pieces like the ones they already had. Perhaps the only difference was in color or material. But, overall, it was mostly the same – uninteresting, if not downright boring.

Fashion experts, however, do not think that gender-neutral clothing will completely take over the gender-specific lines. It’s just that gender is no longer an unbreakable fashion restriction. People now have more leeway to express themselves exactly as they choose to.

And yet, while fashion brands are embracing this cultural subversion of gender norms, it may still be a long way to go on the whole. The cosmopolitan centers of the world may be quick to adapt to androgynous fashion, but the rest of the planet may have difficulty in breaking away from established dressing conventions. There may still be some reluctance somewhere.

When New York City-based label Public School launched a women’s line that shared fabrics with its menswear collections, cofounder Dao-Yi Chow had to explain: “We’re not trying to be androgynous. There’s a sophisticated ease to both our male and female clothes, in which either could wear the same thing.” He was probably being careful in order not to spite the sensibilities of those who were not yet very open to the idea. But, on that occasion, Dao-Yi was himself wearing a pair of harem pants from his women’s collection.

In countries like the Philippines, for instance, it has taken a long time for women to cross the dressing stereotypes and be able to wear pants and t-shirts. It’s certainly going to be much more difficult for Filipino men to cross the divide. For sure, there’s going to be questions regarding their ‘sexuality’ – which is really tough for the Filipino male psyche.

Over at the fashion capitals of the world, men crisscrossing dress codes doesn’t seem to be much of an issue. There, many A-list celebrities are embracing so-called “feminine” fashion tropes. There’s Harry Styles in his Gucci boots, Zayn Malik in ladies’ blouses, David Beckham in skirts – even Justin Bieber has no problem wearing women’s skinny jeans. Kanye West and Jared Leto are also embracing all manner of skirts, bows, and blouses.

When Jaden Smith – son of Hollywood actor Will Smith – donned a skirt in Louis Vuitton’s spring/summer 2016 campaign, the young man was even praised for his defiance of the norm. The popular reaction was, like, “Why not?” instead of “Why?” It was his personal statement against bullying, he later explained.

When New York City-based label Public School launched a women’s line that shared fabrics with its menswear collections, cofounder Dao-Yi Chow carefully explained: “We’re not trying to be androgynous. There’s a sophisticated ease to both our male and female clothes, in which either could wear the same thing.” He was probably being careful in order not to spite the sensibilities of those who were not yet very open to the idea. But, on that occasion, Dao-Yi was wearing a pair of harem pants from his women’s collection.

Runway shows and department stores have blurred the distinction between “women’s” and “men’s.” In many homes, husbands and wives now exchange apparels – pants and shirts, in particular – although keeping it a secret between themselves. With more and more gender-neutral fashion items coming up, it is now getting difficult to tell which ones are “for her” from what are “for him.”

Androgynous clothing may not be a concept exclusive to the modern time. History would attest that King Louis XIV already practiced it in his time. And there are countries whose national costume for its men includes a skirt. Against such background, the present gender-neutral fashion trend is not revolution – but evolution.