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Freeman Cebu Lifestyle

A Michelin-Star Chef cooked dinner for me

Malaika Grace Diegor - The Freeman

CEBU, Philippines — The word “Michelin Star” is the seal of fine dining quality, and restaurants awarded a star will be most proud of this recognition. It is the restaurant that acquire the star; however if owner, the chef and the restaurant is one person, then the Chef has the star – like Ferran Adrià.

British Chef Jason Atherton has four restaurants that have been awarded a one-star status out of his 17 restaurants around the world. His first restaurant, the Pollen Street Social (London) received a one-star just three months after it opened in 2011.

The Pig & Palm in Cebu is the 16th restaurant of the Atherton’s group, The Social Company. The restaurant differs from the rest because it offers casual dining of sharing “modern European food with a warm Filipino twist” and a bar lounge that promotes unique cocktail drinks.

Chef Jason Atherton recently invited a small group of lifestyle writers to a six-course dinner and I was fortunate to be included in the list. Chef Jason revealed that they work very hard to maintain a Michelin rating but he is not obsessed with stars. The bottom line is that customers go home completely satisfied with what they had been served with in their restaurant.

In our media dinner, canapés were Shrimp Kinilaw, Tomato Tart and Pulled Pork Donut. Kinilaw, Ceviche and Tataki (cooked) are now very popular entrées that use vinegar and fruit juices to “cook” raw saltwater fish. Acids alter the chemical structure of muscles. At one time, Nona Restaurant in Japan served shrimps with black ants and called it the “Flavors of Nagono Forest.” Fascinating!

The second course was the Seared Tuna with Feta & Pistachio Mousse, Tomato and Black Olive. Searing the fish over a hot flame seals the juices inside the tissues. This dish has a star rating because the mousse of cheese and nut imparts a heavenly flavor. A second taste is encountered; wiping the liquids with the tuna meat and the tomato with the olive indeed provides a delightful finish to the dish.

It was followed by the next dish, the Cold Smoked Duck Breast with Pickled Red Cabbage, Foie Gras Parfait & Candied Walnut. Ducks and rabbits are not popular to Cebuanos. The image of the duck happily lapping the canals in the rural areas and the similarity between the carcass of rabbit (ears off) and cats are just too offensive to local sensibilities. I loved the duck, which had taken on a fragrant aroma from the smoking.  The Foie Gras Parfait provided the luxurious and delicious taste while the pickled cabbage cushioned any excesses.

The star of the evening was the Fillet of Beef with Potato Fondant, Roast Pumpkin and Toasted Oats. It was cooked to perfection and a thought, excuse me, flashed in my mind: “Lami-a ini oy!” My colleague in a gourmet society, Teresin Mendezona, and Cebu City Councilor Margot Osmeña agreed with me, 100 percent. I was the quality of cooking that separates a Michelin-Star Chef from a chef, and, well… from the ordinary cooks.

Yogurt & Calamansi White Chocolate Lolly was served followed by the dessert, the Black Forest Gateau. I went home happy with the thought that a Michelin-star Chef cooked dinner for me – and it was such a wonderful experience!

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JASON ATHERTON

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