Lunch at Asiong

MANILA, Philippines – Resting on the middle of an isolated patch of land is the charming food haven, open on its sides ideal for cross ventilation. The interior covers some 209 square meters, but the spacious, well-manicured front and back yards may both be converted into an al fresco dining area when requested or required.

Surrounded by sturdy heavy wooden furniture which reminded us of days gone by, there were antique paintings reminiscent of an ancient past and passed-on-through-the-generations plates artistically propped up against a wall.

Amidst the verdant and viridian blooms and blossoms was a pretty terrace with a traditional duyan (hammock) gently swaying whenever the breeze blew. It was truly a tranquil scene one would imagine straight from a movie or lifestyle magazine.

Distracted by the jars of delectable treats and goodies neatly displayed on wrought iron shelves, the ladies immediately made up their minds on what to take home, plus pasalubongs, just when the amiable Sonny Trias Lua – proprietor, chief executive and chef of Asiong, all rolled into one – approached us and introduced himself.

He quickly shared that when his Nanay passed on in 2000, he inherited the operations of the establishment and now continues the legacy of the Trias-Lua lineage, with the aid of their loyal employees.

The restaurant is named after his father Ignacio, or Asiong, who started the eatery in the 1950s. When he passed away in 1972, they decided to keep the name, which had by then become somewhat of a landmark in Silang.

As we had made previous reservations and pre-ordered our courses, the ever-ready owner immediately followed up with a wide smile and asked, “Ready for lunch?”

On cue, wonderfully plated delights poured forth from two antique Capiz windows which led into the hot specialty kitchens of Asiong de Cavite.

With the homey old world interiors, the home-cooked meal always makes one feel like you’ve been transported to a familiar place, enjoying blissful moments. Touted as family yet fiesta food, each and every step of the procedure, developed through the years, is done by meticulous caring hands, with masterful techniques and a huge heart. Each and every ingredient is either grown in their garden or locally sourced – they know exactly where the ingredients originate from. This is all part of their clan’s dedication to cucina Caviteño.

As we started on light fresh garden greens with kesong puti and kaong vinegar, I had the chance to spend some time with Sonny, who shared about his heritage and the story behind the enigmatic restaurant.

Born and bred in Cavite and the youngest of three siblings, Sonny was constantly exposed to culinary activities – day in and day out – in the busy family kitchen. He narrates that whenever his cravings would kick in, he would experiment and whip up something new.

While we had a taste of the entree, Pan de Troso with kesong puti and Imus longganisa, we found out that the whole business was really founded by sheer accident.

Sometime in 1960, a huge fire destroyed much of the town central, including the public market and surrounding restaurants. Workers would pass by their house – thankfully spared but standing alone among the charred neighborhood – and would catch a whiff of the aromas that wafted from their kitchen. One asked if he could be invited for lunch. The family obliged, and refused to accept payment. The following day, the same guy with happy taste buds returned, with yet another co-worker. The number of “guests” quickly grew in number. Their home turned into a de facto restaurant since the “guests” would leave their payment under their plates after every meal! No freeloaders here, after all.

As we moved on to fried crispy bangus and their signature dish, pancit pusit – their trademark, and the trend they popularized – we found out that Sonny has been living the dream for most chefs: to participate in Madrid Fusion, and not once, but twice!

“I proudly represented Cavite for CALABARZON last year. Then for the second Madrid Fusion, Asiong stood proud for the Philippines in the International Category, as part of the team of food writer, the creative JJ Yulo,” he shares.

Constantly motivated by the smiles of his pleased customers, he looks forward to cooking meals for his “dear family, close friends and a very special someone.”

With garlic, his favorite ingredient, and his rubber spatula in hand, which he concedes lessens wastage, Sonny says his most loved dish is adobo – “I grew up loving it!” he exclaims. “You can make as many versions depending on your present desires, and as your mood dictates.”

When he is stressed, his Lola’s sinigang and the varieties of adobo make his day. “It reminds me of my happy childhood,” he reminisces. On his rather limited travels abroad, he has become a big fan of all the regional varieties and styles of Chinese cuisine.

When asked about his most treasured recipe, he admits it’s his mother’s sweetened mangoes in syrup. “As a growing child in the 60’s, I loved the imported halved peaches in light syrup more than any other sweet. But my mom would order a certain type of dwarfed mango which, when processed, yielded the softest melt-in-your-mouth ambrosia I’ve ever tasted. Since that very second, mango unseated my former favored fruit.”

Sonny feels proud every time a customer would proclaim that their food is excellent. And rightfully so!

However, due to their success, there have been some nasty critics. A pet peeve of Sonny is plagiarizers. “A frustration in my career is when other pretentious ‘chefs’ pirate, without any qualms, some of my family’s original creations and unapologetically and shamelessly adopt them as their very own. It’s simple thievery! Honesty is so important for me,” he adds.

Since he is already adept at the intricacies of rustic cooking, his next goal is to master baking. “I will focus on it one day, hopefully sooner than later,” he declares.

For those who dream of becoming a chef someday, Sonny’s expert advice is to “Follow your taste buds.”

A graduate of Philippine School for Interior Design in 1982, he admits he would probably have been an interior designer if he were not in the realm of food. “I just love to put things together!” In fact, he has even won a Philippine Institute of Interior Designers’ competition some years back.

Sonny says Asiong caters to “people who love good food.” In short, all the foodies in the world.

If given a chance to cook for someone special, Sonny discloses that he would love to prepare a meal for his late parents, one last time. “If only my parents could see me now. I would trade everything just to let them observe what I’ve learned from them.”

As for today, Sonny believes Asiong is at the crossroads of establishing itself as a dominant force in the industry. “I think we are now ripe to be a part of the mainstream,” he boldly declares.

Asiong de Cavite is located at Buenavista Drive, Bgy. Ducal, Silang, Cavite. Open 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. on weekdays, and 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. on weekends.