Small bites from the Big Apple

In her book Diplomatic Baggage, the Travails of a Trailing Spouse, Brigid Keenan amusingly lamented about the early years of their foreign posting to countries where technology was a challenge and the internet was unheard of. The predicament of a sociable woman uprooted from home and a promising career in London and moved to a hardship post was understandable. For what Brigid lacked in technological connection she relished in terms of human interactions, which she wittingly chronicled in her best-selling memoir.

Fast-forward 20 years after reading Brigid’s book, her story resonates again as we move here in New York for the hubby’s assignment to the Permanent Mission of the Philippines to the United Nations.

One of the challenges of moving to a new country is getting used to living in a suitcase again while scouting for a residence and adjusting to a new environment. To have a first-hand info of what to expect in New York, I had lunch with my Malaysian friend who with her husband were assigned here when Covid-19 broke out. We were teary eyed as we gave each other the tightest and longest hug. After two years of social distancing it felt surreal to give a dear friend a precious hug and get one in return. After our exchange of gifts – a copy of Julie Scelfo’s The Women Who Made New York from her and a bagful of her all-time favorite chocolate coated dried mangoes from me – the curious waiter asked, “You did not see each other for a long time?” We happily replied, “Five years!” Midway through our conversation, the waiter asked us, “Do you want to warm your food?” Only then did we realize it was past 4:00 PM! We started lunch at 12:15.

My friend briefed me about the activities for women and spouses in the UN; how the mood is during the UN General Assembly week (every September) when world leaders converge, usually with First Ladies and Madams in tow; how the major alleyways are transformed into labyrinths barred with security fences and all about the New York culture scene, which I am very excited about. “There are no dull moments in the Big Apple,” my friend assured me. More than these exciting events, I wish that this year’s UN-GA would be a truly momentous one with world leaders finally coming up with concrete resolutions for citizens of Ukraine, Myanmar and conflict zones to finally achieve the most elusive peace they all deserve.

One afternoon while walking along Fifth Avenue, after attending Mass at St. Patrick’s Cathedral, one of the most iconic shrines here, I pondered at how New York is a city of contrasts – something that I did not give much thought to when I came as a tourist. Sandwiched between skyscrapers are art deco, pre-war buildings that endlessly mesmerize me. Yet, when I admire every intricate carving and enchanting detail of these engineering marvels that had withstood two world wars, chances are my thoughts are interrupted and my heart is crushed at the sight of a homeless curled up outside a designer shop for expensive winter coats. “Why can’t the manager just give her one of their old coats?” The hubby laughed at my silly idea yet added, “Or we could bring her a blanket.” “But we did not bring any blankets in our luggage,” I said. “Should we give her one from the hotel?” I asked. End of conversation.

Fine dining restaurants are everywhere, yet in every corner are enticing food carts that sell a variety of cuisine from all over the world – sanitary, yummy and not so pricey! On our first night, we tried the irresistible Egyptian food. As the lone, friendly and nosy cook cum server scooped our order in a box, he asked, “Where are you from?” The hubby cheerfully replied, “Philippines.” Then he asked another question, “Onions?” To which the hubby said, “Yes! More!” If he only knew how satisfied we were with the extra serving of caramelized onions!

Now I think of why our renowned adobo has yet to hit the league of New York’s famous food carts (or maybe it had). It could be a perfect meal for hungry pedestrians or famished bystanders in the dead of winter. I imagine a starving FedEx delivery man stop by a cart ordering a box of steaming hot rice laced with spiced brown sauce, topped with chunks of chewy meat, drizzled with minced garlic, peppercorns and a bay leaf or two. Whether the customer magically blurts out, “Ang sarap!” or simply says “Yummy!” it could be a testament of how far – literally – and enduringly our adobo could go.

Aside from the architecture, food and overall street scenes, the cacophony of conversations of people zigzagging through the busy streets, do amaze me. One minute I hear someone talk in a fine New York accent, next thing I hear someone curse, converse in Spanish, chat in Korean or Chinese, video call a loved one in Vietnamese or exclaim in an unfamiliar language. Oddly, I hardly hear familiar chatters in our language.  Perhaps our kababayans are busy caring for the sick and the elderly or saving lives in hospitals and care homes. Or they must be rehearsing for their next Broadway performance, monitoring stocks on Wall Street or teaching Math or Science in schools in the quieter suburbs.

This city is truly a melting pot of cultures and a tableau of contrasting realities. While walking to our favorite sandwich shop after a day’s work, the hubby asked if I ever imagined myself living in New York. I said no, but after our first few weeks here, I can somehow imagine our life in the Big Apple in the next few years. And I wish to savor each moment of that life ahead – one small bite at a time.