History that won’t be washed away by time

You were part of the 351,” Tourism Secretary Berna Romulo-Puyat told me after the historic re-opening last Friday of Boracay Island to non-residents. Historic because it was the first time in the Philippines that government shut down completely an island resort to tourists, amid much opposition and skepticism that an island heavily dependent on revenues from tourism could withstand the drastic closure. But survive Boracay did. And how.

Thus, people were eager to set foot again on the powdery fine sand of the world-renowned island, as if in a race to be the first to set foot on the surface of the moon.

On Oct. 26, at the much-awaited “soft opening,” there were a total of 3,068 people on the island: 2,562 tourists with hotel and resort bookings, 155 residents and 351 non-residents who were only there for the day. I was among the lucky 351. For once, I was glad to be a statistic.

I was there to cover the re-opening of the island after its six-month closure, a much-coveted assignment because I was also there a week before it was closed to tourists last April. I remember feeling sorry for the residents and the hotel employees, but I felt it was a temporary setback — like a window closing so that more doors will open for the island. Now, other popular island resorts like Maya Bay in Thailand, the setting for Leonardo DiCaprio’s movie, The Beach, is also reportedly going to be closed indefinitely for rehab.

From the much-improved Caticlan Airport, we disembarked at the Cagban jetty port and were welcomed by dancers in colorful tribal costumes. The rousing welcome set the tone for what was in store — a rousing change on the island.

From the jetty, we were driven to the Discovery Shores Boracay on the other end of the island known for its wide stretch of white sand. The ride was, well, reminiscent of The Jetsons as one’s vehicle must go up and down in certain places because of construction going on full swing. And this is where tourists should manage their expectations — it isn’t a pretty sight. Only four kilometers of concrete roads have been completed so far. Cables are dangling from posts, huge sewerage pipes are still being installed. But you could see that there is light at the end of the tunnel, so to speak.

We passed by Wetland No. 4, which used to be a garbage dump. Right in front of D’Mall, it has been “adopted” by the Aboitiz Group before the lagoon goes the way of the Pasig River.

In partnership with the Department of Tourism, the Aboitiz Foundation’s rehab of Wetland No. 4 is a three-year project that will convert the one-hectare lagoon into a “linear urban park.” A key feature is the establishment of a plaza, surrounded by a boardwalk with trees and plants endemic to Boracay. It will be called the Balabag Wetland Park.

“The vision is to create a wetland park with a one-hectare ‘lake’ replanted on and along it with native wetland plant species. The park will have a 400-meter promenade around it marked by four view decks and dotted with tropical rain gardens.  A larger ‘plaza’ will mark the center of the park and there will be a mosaic map of Boracay on its floor that will show visitors the locations of the other wetlands and natural features of the island,” said Aboitiz consultant and urban planner Paulo Alcazaren. The project was made possible in collaboration with the DOT and TIEZA along with the Department of Environment and Natural Resources, in coordination with the Department of Public Works and Highways.

According to Paulo, Aboitiz will also set up an Automatic Weather Station (AWS) in the park, which will give locals and tourists live weather readings and projections of local weather for up to a week in advance.

Tourism Secretary Berna Romulo-Puyat and Karen Davila walk barefoot on the beach. Photo by Joanne Rae Ramirez.

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From the Balabag Wetland, we took a detour on a road the locals called the “dramatic” road, because so much drama took  place in widening it. Apparently, so many illegal structures encroached on what was rightfully a road and reclaiming it from usurpers involved a lot of, well, drama. At the end of the road is more drama — the breathtaking sight of Bulabog Beach parallel to the White Beach. Bulabog Beach is popular for kitesurfing.

Then finally, we drove up to Discovery Shores, a modern tropical paradise with probably the best beachfront on the island.

And then my jaw dropped.

DPWH’s Anna Mae Lamentillo and the author.

As we walked towards the pool and the open-air Sands restaurant of the hotel, we beheld a carpet of talcum-powder-like sand unfurling on clear blue waters under deep cerulean skies. Coconut trees stood like graceful sentinels on the beachfront, unspoilt by  fixed beach umbrellas, lounge chairs, hawkers, plastic bottles, seaweed and slime. According to Berna, the algae (lumot) that used to cling to the shoreline was a by-product of pollutants. Only one specie of the seaweed is reportedly responsible for making the sand white by breaking up corals through time.

As we walked on the beach with our bare feet, Berna suddenly heard music from a videoke machine disturbing the quiet and immediately she said, “Aba, bawal iyan!”

Restaurateur Happy Ongpauco-Tiu treated us to a sumptuous Filipino lunch of lechon kawali, pinakbet, sweet and sour fish and adobong pusit at Sands as we took in the overwhelming beauty of the beach in front of us.

The site plan of the Balabag Wetland Park.

Here, that beauty does not fade, even with the sunset.

And even if written on the sand, the historical rehabilitation of Boracay won’t be washed away by time.

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(You may e-mail me at j[email protected]. Follow me on Instagram @joanneraeramirez.)