Enough of virus politics — let’s move on

For me moving on was to visit Paete, a little town hemmed in between land and sea. It is the place of my origins. Whenever there is an opportunity to visit I take it enthusiastically. Last Wednesday I went there to distribute stuffed toys, umbrellas and cards as a late Pamaskong Handog from PAGCOR. As always, each time I visit I learn new things about the town – its history and quaint practices. It looks different than most little towns because it continues to live its past.

Each time I come I visit the Kape Kesada Art Gallery which is run by distant cousin Francis Valdecantos. On exhibit were paintings and sculpture called Tribu.

I asked Francis what Tribu was all about because it was a collection with a particular topic. He tells the story.

“It was in December of 2018 when the artist Melchor Sabariza made his memorable trip to Paete to visit the late Dr. Nilo Valdecantos upon hearing the news that he has recovered from his first bout with lymphoma.

“He was warmly received and artistic discourse flowed the whole morning. Dr. Nilo was showing his tribal tattoos of the Sun, Eagle, Rain and Mountains made by the renowned Apo Whang Od. He was also sharing his experience of living with the Northern tribes during his stay in the Cordilleras. A eureka moment struck between the artist and Dr. Nilo, they conceptualized a show which will pay homage and honor to the different northern tribes of the Philippines who are well known for their rich and colorful history and culture.

The artist, Melchor Sabariza also pitched in the idea of portraying the Badjao, a seafaring tribe from the southernmost part of the Philippines. He has always been fascinated with their image in their boats called balangays. It was how they made their way to different islands and fishing shoals to make a living and travel.

Melchor Sabariza, the painter, chose to portray the tribes as a way to bridge great distances in order for us to peer into the tribes’ unique way of life, a window to witness their stories, lifestyle and spirit.”

Nilo’s son Francis handed me a pamphlet of the exhibit, with an introduction by Melchor Sabariza the artist.

Through his sculpture and paintings he breathes life and color to the old ethnic tribes. Among the paintings were Mandirigma, Mother and Child, Ang Musikero, Pagpupulong, Hari ng Kalsada and Chismisan among others.

I chose the painting Byahe which depicts the balangay created by the inhabitants of what is now known as the Philippines. The balangay brought migrants such as the early Indonesians and Malays who came to our shores. Then the sea belonged to everyone and connected people from different origins.

Tribu is the Unconquered Spirit as it heads from north to south of the Philippines. Head to the North and you will reach the Cordilleras, home to the Igorots. Turn South and you will find. the Sulu Sea, the dominion of the Badjao. However hard it was they developed a way of life, a culture that has endured the tests of times and the perils of invaders when they came to the Philippines.

“Life and culture can blossom even in the most inhospitable places, it is a testament to the will and uncanny ability of our ancestors to be masters of their fate and mould their surroundings as they see fit. The Igorot and the Badjao, tribes separated by thousands of leagues, of land and water, salt and rock may stand as one, unconquered in spirit.”

Everytime I visit I marvel at the moss-covered church built by the villagers in Spanish times . It has the character of antiquity. There is a seat with my maternal grandparents’ name. It means they helped or contributed to keep the Church going through the years. It is the center of town and community then and now. But it is also besieged by selfish interests.

As you enter you see a floor to ceiling portrait of San Cristobal carrying the child Jesus on his shoulder to ferry him across the river. I was told this was the Spanish version of the portrait. Behind it was the Muslim version. The Spanish San Cristobal had the facial features of Spaniards and the appearance of a high born.

The Muslim had rough features and humbler gear. This version was discovered when the Church’s parishioners put down the Spanish version for repair. Sadly it was further ruined when it was brought down. Both need repair to save the portraits by experts.

I sought the help of Serena Diokno, then chair of the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) to help restore the two paintings. The funds were ready but the commission did not know to whom they should give it because there were two groups fighting over it. The parish priest then sided with one group. I am being asked to try again because this time there is a new parish priest who might be more conciliatory. Whew! But I will try;.

If nothing is done soon the precious San Cristobal paintings will rot and be lost to future generations and its meaning in the history of Paete.