The Tivoli: And the delicious memories linger on

MANILA, Philippines - Chad and Jeremy’s breezy A Summer Song is humming in my head as I battle rush-hour traffic in Makati to make it to the Mandarin Oriental Hotel’s one-night-only dinner that would jump-start the two-week “MeMOries: Best of the Best in The Tivoli” promo grand finale prior to the hotel’s closure this year.

They say that all good things must end someday

Autumn leaves must fall

But don’t you know that it hurts me so

To say goodbye to you

Wish you didn’t have to go

No, no, no, no

Yes, the hotel with the iconic fan logo that has graced Makati’s vibrant skyline for the past 38 years will soon be fading out of sight. I’ve always been a big fan of Mandarin’s signature fan — I know I’m in the heart of Makati’s Central Business District when I see that familiar symbol waving and smiling at me.

Finally, I make it to The Tivoli with plenty of time to spare before the kitchen staff starts bringing out the first dish in this degustation dinner that consists of a medley of nine courses.

And guess who’s cooking tonight’s one-night-only dinner?

Why, it’s none other than The Tivoli’s (formerly The Tivoli Grill, remember?) former executive chef Norbert Gandler with former executive pastry chef Ernie Babaran, and sous chef Kenneth Cacho! Tivoli’s former culinary team, one of the finest in the metro, returns to bring back their well-loved masterpieces.

For the amuse-bouche, to prepare the palate for the symphony of flavors to come, there’s  smoked seafood profiterole, followed by Millionaire Salad of smoked duck breast, foie gras ice cream (so creamy, so yummy!), pressed mud crab salad with salmon roe accompanied by mesclun greens with walnut-sherry vinaigrette. This should make you feel like a million bucks!

For something French and frothy, we dig our spoons into The Tivoli Bouillabaisse — a blend of seafood, salmon tartare, pan de tomate in a bouillabaisse froth.

For the wine pairing, you have a choice of  Cheverny, Domaine de la Plante D’or, Sauvignon Blanc - Chardonnay 2010, Loire Valley, France or Vouvray, Domaine Champalou, Chenin Blanc 2010, Loire Valley, France.

For the third course, I don’t mean to sound tongue-in-cheek, but the Port Wine Braised Mulwarra Veal Cheeks (with green pea risotto, wild mushrooms, and gremolata, a perfect condiment accompaniment to veal made of minced parsley, minced garlic, and lemon zest) are simply mouthwatering!

For a taste of land and sea, The Tivoli offers its triple treat of seared scallops, thinly sliced black truffles, portobello-spinach tortellini and sauce vierge (a French sauce of olive oil, lemon juice, chopped tomato and basil). All this, you wash down with your choice of the following: The King’s Wrath, Marisco Vineyard, Pinot Noir 2009, Marlborough, New Zealand or Kendall-Jackson Vintners Reserve, Chardonnay 2009, Sonoma County, California, USA.

To cleanse the palate and prepare it for the next assault, we’re served a Blackberry Tonic consisting of blackberry sorbet, shaved Grey Goose vodka ice, and tonic water.

Okay, mates, we’re now down to the sixth course. But of course, we’re having 52° Australian Bultarra Saltbush Lamb from free-range lamb whose meat is said to be tastier and more tender than any other lamb meat on the market. This awesome Aussie dish is made of Kalamata olive-crusted Australian lamb loin with eggplant and confit of lamb shoulder, made more colorful with haricot verts (French green beans), green apple, celery, and mint chutney.

And now, here’s the beef — plus the lobster: Roasted Nebraska Prime Angus Beef Strip Loin and Butter-Poached Baby Lobster (with onion tomato tart tatin, truffled potato celeriac mash, and Pedro Jimenez jus).

For the wine pairing, you have a choice of as follows: Clos Plince Grand Vin de Bordeaux 2008, Pomerol, France or Vina Ventisquero Pangea, Apalta Vineyard, Syrah 2007, Colchagua Valley, Chile.

Now, we come to my favorite part — dessert.  Our favorite pastry chef Ernie Babaran treats our sweet tooth to the most sinful Textures of Valrhona — layers of chocolate preparations, praline, and buttered popcorn ice cream. Ah, such sweet bliss!

For a cool ending to our nine-course dinner, we have carrot sorbet, yoghurt ice cream, beetroot puree, Pont-l’Eveque French cheese.

There’s probably a lot that people will miss about this fine dining European contemporary restaurant when it bids us au revoir. For his part, Norbert Gandler, everybody’s favorite executive chef who started at Tivoli in 1989, says he’ll miss “extremely much the teamwork at Mandarin Oriental.” He adds,  “We have such a great team. And I’m not just talking of the kitchen, I’m talking of the whole management who gave us a free hand to try out new things every day, every week. It was a lot of hard work, but Mandarin was like a family. Tivoli has always been known not only for good food but also for great service. There are just so many memories.”

Gandler remembers how The Trivoli changed the fine dining scene in the early 1990s. “When I came in 1989, in general when people talked about fine dining, it was only about eating steak. Then, people started to be interested in all kinds of food ... The Philippines has gone international and can keep up with many other countries. Why do you think so many young kids want to become chefs?”

For Ernie Babaran, who now works with Gandler in the International School for Culinary Arts and Hotel Management as director for pastry and baking arts, he’ll miss the hard work at Mandarin Oriental, Manila that has brought home many an award at the Chefs on Parade competitions.

Beginning July 16, to mark the iconic restaurant’s grand finale, executive sous chef Remi Vercelli and his team will bring back The Tivoli’s timeless favorites and yesteryear’s most celebrated creations. A most awaited highlight of “The Best of the Best” is a one-night-only dinner promotion on July 18 featuring a collaboration between Mandarin Oriental, Manila executive chef Rene Ottlik and chef extraordinaire Gaita Fores, who confesses she has always dreamt of working in Tivoli’s kitchen. Fores owns the renowned restaurants Lusso, Cibo, Café Bola, Grace Park, and Cibo d M Catering.

Of course, you can expect only the best from this dream team — famed Tivoli signature classics prepared for the a la carte, business lunch, and degustation menus. Among the much-loved favorites to be recreated are: US Nebraska Certified Angus Prime Beef Rossini, Roasted Rib Eye from the trolley, Roast Sea Bass with Potato Gnocchi, Crab Diablo, Duck Breast a l‘orange, and Traditional Crepe Suzette.  The three-course business lunch menu is priced at P1,818+ while the six-course degustation menu is at P3,400+++.

Among the dishes to be prepared for the seven-course degustation menu are: Foie Gras Carpaccio, Acquarello Risotto with River Prawn and Latume Sac Ciccioli Crumble, Pappardelle Al Duck & Lardo di Colonnata Ragu, and Beef Tenderloin a la Griglia.

The Tivoli may soon be closing its doors, pulling down its  drapes,  emptying its last wine bottle,  serving its last guest, and turning off its lights forever, but surely, the delicious memories will linger on and on and on!

* * *

“MeMOries: Best of the Best of The Tivoli” begins July 16 and will run until July 25, the last day of the restaurant. The Tivoli is open Monday to Friday for lunch and dinner, and on Saturday for dinner.        

For reservations and inquiries, call Tivoli at 750-8888 extension 2433; or e-mail momnl-tivoli@mohg.com.