Cruising like Catherine Deneuve

MANILA, Philippines - Like Catherine Deneuve tanned and bleached blond in Le Sauvage, more elegantly well-groomed in Indochine or the Marilyn of Mississippi Mermaid, the Vuitton girl from Louis Vuitton’s 2013 cruise collection is a luxurious and nonchalant woman.

She crosses the globe in the style of an urban or exotic traveler. White forms the basis of her wardrobe, enlivened with burnt, warm shades of scorched brown and gold mixed with feminine touches of pink, lavender, sky blue or deeply pigmented indigo.

Strong graphics express a geometry reminiscent of Vasarely or David Hicks’ kinetic motifs, yet avoid any retro Sixties references. Like a 3D print, eyelet embroidery is crafted in extra, extra-large (XXL), then re-embroidered with sequins. The easygoing silhouette places less emphasis on the waist: calf-length or full-length skirts for daytime sit on the hips.

Free spirit: French actress Catherine Deneuve inspires Louis Vuitton’s cruise collection 2013.

True to the spirit of the autumn/winter 2012-2013 collection, layering creates a composite yet harmonious look despite the contrasting proportions. Little cropped trousers are slipped under dresses. Wider and longer, they morph into flowing Bermuda before becoming loose-fitting and supple culottes. Jacquard micro-shorts with a matching jacket form a new summer suit. The sleeveless jacket and boat-neck tunic add to the collection’s leitmotif: rich and sophisticated combinations of layers. Occasional flashes of brown sequins add a dose of glitter to this fresh wardrobe for tropical climes.

THE KEY WORD IS ‘LAYERING’

Layering is the key word of this cruise collection, whether a short little jacket over a long blue and brown dress or cropped knee-length trousers under a tunic dress.

The same trompe l’oeil impression is created on the geometric eyelet embroidery dress with asymmetric neckline and single long sleeve, covered in a chocolate-colored sequined “apron.” The proportions deliberately clash, playing with different lengths and creating surprising combinations.

STRIKING GRAPHICS

The striking graphics deliberately break up the collection’s clear lines, adding a refreshing and playful vibe. In an overall design on a shorts suit, contrasting with the XXS or XXL prints or simply calmed by white cotton Bermudas, all of the collection’s graphics contribute to the opulence of a stylishly relaxed season.

Denim has been saturated with indigo pigments, in a subliminal evocation of Asian-inspired references in the form of large, wide culottes or a boat-neck sundress.

FROM MICRO-SHORTS TO CULOTTES

Micro-shorts, pedal pushers, Bermudas, culottes, cigarette pants — all kinds of bottoms are offered in the 2013 cruise collection. From ultra-fresh cotton, jacquard and radzimir to the flowing, loose-fitting denim culottes, the cruise collection enables women to go from city to beach and all around the globe.

Exotic traveler: White forms the basis of LV’s cruise wardrobe.

To accompany her on her journey, the Speedy and Neverfull bags have been revisited this season in two colors of Monogram Applique cotton: caramel and pink.

SEVENTIES SOLE

Sandals with oversize lacquered cork platform soles conjure up Seventies style. However, the uppers in metallic leather or jacquard fabric, in a matching pattern to the ready-to-wear, along with the colored Perspex heels, bring the footwear in the collection up-to-date. Likewise, the masculine-style glacé calfskin lace-up or buckle shoes are given a twist with huge platforms and bright colors.

STRAW & SWAROVSKI

A woven and lacquered straw visor is embellished with Swarovski elements and floral embroidery. Sunglasses featuring colored mirror lenses — brown, pink or blue — with matching metal arms, update the classic aviator style, with the bridge sheathed in vegetal leather. Jewelry blends metal and Swarovski crystals in cognac or fruit-juice shades. Resin bracelets inlaid with colored crystals add a playful touch to this carefree luxury.

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In the Philippines, Louis Vuitton is located in Greenbelt 4, Ayala Center, Makati.