Discovering Samboan

CEBU, Philippines — Some 150 kilometers to the southwest of Cebu Province is a town of natural beauty – Samboan! It’s about four hours’ bus ride from the Cebu South Bus Terminal in Cebu City.  It is bounded by Ginatilan on the north, Santander on the south, and Oslob on the east side.

If Samboan is not very well heard of by travelers, it’s perhaps because the town is really low-key, like many other towns in the province. It does not have an aggressive tourism come-on program. And yet the town is naturally endowed with attractions that are sure to lure tourists if known.

The town abounds with natural wonders – caves, waterfalls, rivers, beaches. These are complemented with heritage structures that speak of the colorful past of the place. Plus – the town has a culinary highlight of its own.

Samboan is one of Cebu’s oldest settlement sites. Its St. Michael the Archangel Parish Church, built in 1842, has been effectively functioning for almost 200 years already.  In the book “Breve Reseña,” published in 1886, church historian Fr. Felipe Redondo describes the Samboan Church as a building made of “mamposteria” or masonry with only one nave, quite unlike other Spanish-built structures of worship in Cebu which are cruciform in design. The Escala de Jabob near the church is also quite a site; it’s a pathway comprising a good number of steps leading up to the old watchtower on a plateau, from where one can get a good view of the Tanon Strait.

Upon reaching Samboan from Cebu City, visitors tired from the several hours of road trip may re-energize with a dip in any of the town’s water spots. There are several of these that beckon from the hills and forested areas – from the loud, shallow currents to the smooth, hushed cascades. It is said that a visit to Samboan starts and ends with a splash!

Just 200 meters from the national highway is the Aguinid Falls, which is now becoming more and more popular among adventurous backpackers. Located in Barangay Tangbo, Aguinid Falls consists of five different tiers along the Tangbo River. Each level has a unique cascade, and one has to pass and climb through limestone paths with flowing waters to get to the next levels.

The manner by which the climb is done is how Aguinid got its name. The word means “to move in squatting position,” in order to avoid sliding over the slippery limestone surface. Getting from one level to the next is really such an adventure.

By the waterway’s surrounding canopies, one is likely to find iguanas. The creatures find home there, because of the lush flora and fauna that grow in the wild. Interesting caves are also found around.

The Calatagan and Kang Porning Caves are two caverns that have been drawing visitors. In Calatagan, one will have to crawl to get inside since the entrance is quite small, although the interiors are huge. Colonies of bats and snakes are also found inside.

Samboan also attracts visitors with its famous delicacy, the Palagsing. It is shaped like “suman” or “budbod,” wrapped in banana leaves. Palagsing is sweeter, though, and has a more intense flavor. Customarily, the delicacy is enjoyed with native coffee made from corn grits roasted black.

Making Palagsing entails a laborious process that involves extracting starch from the trunk of a mature saksak palm, which is bountiful along the Samboan coastline, especially near the Aguinid Falls area. The starch extraction process for making Palagsing is similar to producing tapioca for making sago.

Aside from Palasing, Samboan’s version of the “torta” can hold itself side by side those of the other southern Cebu towns’. The town’s Tabanglang, a native dish made from sautéed "tabangka" (snail) and "ulang" (freshwater shrimp), is a good appetizer that easily earns the nod of everyone who tastes it. Other local delicacies include Linubihang Kagang (land crab cooked in coconut milk), and Kalo-Kalo (coconut-maize pudding).

For now, the sparse accommodation facilities for visitors in Samboan are sufficient for the few that want to or have discovered the town so far. There’s a lodging house and most of the attraction sites have cottages for rent. It’s okay to stay overnight or a few days in the town.

Visitors, though, shall not expect the most comfort. Samboan is mainly an adventure destination, for those who are seeking thrill and excitement. Well, yes, those that simply want to savor the nostalgic atmosphere – especially around the church area – may also have their fill.

There’s a lot more to discover and enjoy in Samboan. But, as the saying goes, “The taste of the pudding is in the eating.” To really experience Samboan, one has to make the trip there.