LONDON — The last day of London Fashion Week saw the men’s shows and presentations for spring-summer 2012. It was all about London’s younger creative talents, most of whom had garnered sponsorships under the NewGen and Fashion East categories of the British Fashion Council.
Williams Handmade showed pieces that were interestingly unique: bags in not-oft seen shapes, crafted in a bespoke manner utilizing traditional bridle leather. A bag shaped like a grandfather clock had a strap detachable at three levels; designwise, it was elegant and endearing, what could perhaps be a tiny version of a standing trunk used for travel, its large version could be anything from a closet to an actual clock holder. Apparently, many of the pieces are not meant to be carried around; rather, they seem to belong more to a desk, or to store one’s valuables, objects, or papers, such as one from a previous collection shaped like a chair, presumably to sit at the edge of a table.
Marwood is a brand that makes neckties from silk and English lace. The artisanal feel is apparent; understated colors and prints are captivating but subtle. Other designs seen throughout the day included full lace shirts for men that remained decidedly masculine when paired with sneakers and 3/4 length pants; and several print-on-print looks.
The prints called to mind the Mary Katrantzou show a few days earlier, which incorporated several prints into one dress, or had soft chiffon trains on mini dresses. A floral garden on jackets and pants, the same as those on a flower bed on the floor, was a sophisticated new evolution of the brand. Chiffon trains also flowed in Antonio Berardi’s minidresses; slightly armored dresses in black and green held a classic rock-chick aesthetic.
The Africa-inspired KTZ collection featured black speckled fabrics with a modern-tribal bead-and-chain print were fun and polished, a contrast to their shapes in cropped pants and hoodies.