YSTYLE TREND REPORT: #MFW S/S 2018
CHAOS THEORY
Marni
MANILA, Philippines — For Marni’s spring/summer 2018, the Italian house is back to venerating the individual. These are clothes designed in the mien of nourishing the creative spirit. This is Marni in full embrace of each woman’s idiosyncrasies, of both the precious and the peculiar. Helming his sophomore debut for the womenswear label, Francesco Rossi offered a playful print mix of 1950s kitsch florals, David Salle penned inks, and outsize plaids. Chaotic at the onset, to be sure, but the motifs were restrained into corsets and cocoons, sequestered by way of strict hourglass shapes flaring out into louche trousers, colorful peplum slips over voluminous skirts, deconstructed plaid maillots turned camisoles. A key look: a structured overcoat in a delicious mix of plaids, patents and pinks, layered over floral separates.
METROPOLIS
Fendi
There were triangles everywhere at Fendi spring/summer 2018. Inspired by a fusion of Italian Futurism, an early 20th century movement of an imagined machine age, Karl Lagerfeld and Silva Venturini Fendi took geometry, graphic cuts and the notion of “transparency,” rendering these elements into new propositions for the runway. Cut-outs and collars delineated the waist and the shoulder as Fendi’s new erogenous zones; bold chevrons adorned every manner of layered knits and nylon organzas, not to mention outré plaids and stripes for shirts received equal billing with the brand’s emblematic “F” logo on intarsia fur jackets and heat-pressed leathers.
DRAWN TOGETHER
Prada
Feminism, politics, and art — these three elements inspired Miuccia Prada for her spring 2018 collection. Military coats in soft tailoring, unfinished edges, Japanese manga prints, and her signature embellishments were the highlights from the runway. In an interview backstage, the designer said, “We should really start being combative.” Mrs. Prada, never shy about being political in her collections, is most likely referring to the troubling turn of events happening all over the world.
QUEEN OF HEARTS
Dolce & Gabbana
It was pomp and circumstance at Dolce & Gabbana spring/summer 2018. Design duo Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana held court for an imagined queen of hearts. Taking inspiration from the regal finery of one of the face cards from a 52-card deck, the show opened with the house signatures of negligée dressing and exposed-lingerie corsetry; continuing with frocks emblazoned with bucolic prints, rainbows, cherubic images and ultimately, amore-inspired motifs rendered in burnished golds and mirrored jewels. Highlights include: a heart-adorned mini dress with puff-up floral sleeves and an Instagram-ready catsuit in teal and pink sequins.
SUPERMODEL
Versace
It’s been 20 years since the death of Gianni Versace. And in true Versace form, Donatella, a worthy recipient of the best sibling award, paid tribute to his brother in the most fitting way. She looked back at Gianni’s archive and prints and sent down his most iconic collections in capsule groups in the most talked about show this season. Divided into groups — Vogue, Warhol, My Friend Elton, Icons, Baroque, Animalia, Native Americans, Tresor de la Mer, Metal Mesh, and Butterflies — the clothes were worn by the most in-demand runway models of the last decade. But it wouldn’t be a complete Gianni tribute without his original daughters. The show was closed and brought the whole Milan Fashion Week house down with none other than Naomi, Cindy, Claudia, Helena and Carla with George Michael’s Freedom! ‘90 playing in the background.
HARD CANDY
Bottega Veneta
The buck didn’t stop at smartly cut separates for this season’s Bottega Veneta. Creative director Thomas Maier innovated the hallmarks of the Italian house — namely, textile manipulation, deft color theory and intricate adornment — to new and elegant heights for spring/summer 2018. In a palette of muted lilacs, hushed blues, teals and dusty rose, the designer took the soft, louche shapes of 1970s-inspired sportswear and edged them up with bold Italian hardware. Cases in point: belted coats and boxy jackets were embellished with a kaleidoscope of paillettes; mini-frocks got the swingy treatment with suede fringe and leather grommeting; T-shirt gowns were strewn with mirrored bits and bejeweled studs. The total effect? Casual or sportif doesn’t rest at “low-brow” in the right hands.
GREY GARDENS AT THE DISCO
Attico
Just last year and only three seasons ago, Attico, which is Italian for penthouse, had its much-talked-about debut in Milan. Much of its success is to be credited to its founders Giorgia Tordini and Gilda Ambrosio, both stylists, influencers and street-style magnets turned designers. Since its debut, the brand has been an e-commerce favorite gaining stockists from Farfetch, Moda Operandi, Matches Fashion and more. For spring 2018, the brand sticks to its codes of chinoiserie and ‘40s/’70s silhouettes of party-ready cocktail dresses. Each piece is a unique mix of their eclectic, Grey Gardens-gone-disco vibe.
BIKER BALLERINA
Moschino
Jeremy Scott sent down an army of biker ballerinas for spring 2018. Moto jackets, feather and tulle tutus with spiked boots and hats completing the looks. A collaboration with My Little Pony in cutout DIY tees are a must-have from the collection. The last half of the show brought a new meaning to “florals for spring” as Scott sent down living, breathing bouquets in the form of Kaia Gerber, Gigi Hadid and more.
