YSTYLE TREND REPORT:NYFW S/S 2018

THE GRADUATE: MONSE

MANILA, Philippines — The oft-derived reference of collegiate co-ed gets the “Monse twist” for spring/summer 2018. Having launched their young label two years ago, creative directors Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim (also at the helm of New York heritage label Oscar de la Renta) presented their vision for university sportif with deconstructed athleisure and windowpane checks done up in their signature Monse polish. Highlights include reverse-engineered oxford shirting (literally, worn back-to-front) and a sequined jersey in the brand’s version of logomania. Whatever newness Monse failed to present on the runways this season, they delivered elsewhere in accessible luxury that is sure to resonate with their longtime fans. 

SHEER AUDACITY: Eckhaus Latta

Diversity and non-conformity inform the Eckhaus Latta aesthetic and this season is no exception. Although design duo Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta are known for their experimentation with shapes and knits, this season has us seeing their distinct take on tailoring with wide-shouldered suits that are cut short or trousers that are cropped and hang low. They’re not one to shy away from nudity either, with flashes of skin revealed all throughout the show. Whether reflected in their supersheer pastel numbers or a knitted cardigan dress left unbuttoned in the middle to reveal a pregnant model’s belly, their off-kilter approach to design is one that’s worth exploring some more.

AMERICAN HORROR STORY: Calvin Klein

This spring, Raf Simons takes Hollywood horror from the silver screen to the runway with his latest collection for Calvin Klein. The film genre’s portrayal of both an American nightmare and the American dream is what reeled Simons in, inspiring him to come up with designs that simultaneously thrill and provoke. And while an installation by artist Sterling Ruby—oversized pom-poms, axes (a nod to The Shining’s iconic “Here’s Johnny!” scene?), and metal buckets straight out of prom night in Carrie—helped set the tone of the show, it’s the clothes that really gave us the chills. While multicolored yarn gets extra crafty with zany fringed frocks and waterproof nylon (the same material used for tents!) gets the high fashion treatment with ’50s-inspired dress silhouettes, good ol’ denim—a Calvin Klein staple—gets pretty grim with graphics from Andy Warhol’s “Death and Disaster” series.

NOCTURNAL ANIMALS: TOM FORD

Tom Ford’s muse for spring/summer 2018 embodies an extreme dichotomy; she can be the athletic glamazon by day in low-slung leather trousers worn over high-cut maillots; but also, she’s the Los Angeles power woman by night choosing between zhuzhed-to-the-nines power suits or ultra-decadent evening wear, depending on her mood. Ford’s show opened the spring 2018 season in New York with a star-studded front row; counting longtime friends and fans Julianne Moore and Kim Kardashian-West. Highlights include classic pantsuits tailored in Ford’s signature sexed-up polish, bold-shouldered satin suits and sequined mini-dresses with the raciest of hems.

EXTRA EXTRA: Marc Jacobs

More is more at Marc Jacobs’ spring 2018 show, where exaggerated silhouettes, outsized proportions, and a striking assault of prints and Crayola hues took center stage. His show notes explain that the collection is a “reimagining of seasons past somewhere beyond the urban landscape of New York City” but beyond that, Jacobs explains that there’s no conceptual or emotional springboard. Which is probably why suits, sportswear, and even glitzy gowns managed to coexist together. Accents such as silk turbans by Stephen Jones and giant fanny packs give the hyper-vivid looks some extra zing. It’s excessive, sure, but also very, very fun.

NO KINK SHAMING: HELMUT LANG

The subversive dresser — fastened in bondage, corsetted in latex — is the woman Shayne Oliver knows best. As evidenced from last season’s slick BDSM-inspired outing for Hood by Air spring/summer 2017, the label he ultimately co-founded and which is now on indefinite hiatus, Oliver reprises his love affair with all things kink and black leather for his new role as the designer in residence for ’90s label Helmut Lang. 

Out of all the tenets that built up the brand as a cult figure in fashion — a love for monochrome, severe tailoring, minimalism, a gender-neutral approach to dressing — with asymmetric leather lingerie and suspended garters aplenty, Oliver took fetishism and deconstruction furthest for his turn at a Helmut Lang revival.

GRAPHIC TERRITORY: Coach 1941

Americana gets a rock ‘n’ roll ‘tude at Coach 1941 as New York grit, glamour and glitter (the latter was even used to pave the entire show setting) inspired Stuart Vevers’ springtime vision for the American leather label. Vevers credits the unbridled energy of New York as the starting point of the collection but it’s the homage to Keith Haring and his graffiti-style art (which proved pivotal in shaping NYC’s street art culture in the ‘80s) that really got the ball rolling. Observe: the pop artist’s signature squiggles and heart-love motif gets a new lease on life, this time moving from the city streets to metallic slips, knit sweatshirts, boxy carry-ons and vintage-style suede jackets. Vibrant, youthful and unabashedly cheeky, Coach 1941’s latest take on all-American style is scene-stealing.

GEOMETRY CLASS: Tory Burch

Famed interior designer David Hicks is the muse of Tory Burch’s spring collection and frankly speaking, it’s a match made in design heaven. Both are known for their mastery of pattern and color so it’s no surprise that Hicks’ penchant for geometric prints fit seamlessly into the Tory Burch universe. Graphic tile motifs and springtime hues on streamlined silhouettes lend sophisticated ease to poolside dressing, and the collection’s tunic, caftan and silk wrap dress iterations serve as proof. Summer’s a long way away but we’re already counting down the days.

SWIM FAN: FENTY X PUMA

Popstar-turned-designer Rihanna took her spring/summer 2018 outing for Fenty x Puma to the X-Games. An opening of BMX bikers doing aerial stunts (on top of pink sand dunes, no less) set the tone for a surf-meets-motocross collection of hyper-athletic windbreakers cut side-by-side with extremely body-con swimwear — most finished with industrial-grade zippers, nylon- fastened buckles, some overlaid with mesh and cinched with plastic toggles. Par for the course for any Fenty collection, Rihanna did not disappoint with an eclectic array of must-have accessories next season: from thong sandals, to logo-driven fanny packs, to next season’s update for her best-selling footwear. Creepers anybody?

PASTEL PERFECT: VICTORIA BECKHAM

Victoria Beckham paints a confident palette of orchid hues and seafoam blues — with inserts of a crisp, vivid red —  for spring/summer 2018. Less staid and just, really, aggressively wearable: the designer presents an unabashedly pared-down lineup that is  minimal, yet effortlessly chic. A collection of accessible garments and separates tailored to utilitarian perfection. “Delicacy can be strong,” the designer shares backstage, as reported on Vogue.com, and we agree: Beckham’s boxy shirts cinched in smart, sensual (and sometimes totally sheer) pencil skirts are testaments to that.