From farm to fashion

MANILA, Philippines - Gabbie Sarenas continues to harness the intricate beauty of local Filipino textile. For her fall/winter 2017 collection, the designer pays homage to the Filipino farmer — inspired by some of the many rituals that shape Philippine farming. Both a play on texture, embellishment and volume, Sarenas explores a lineup of sheer blousons with leg o’ mutton sleeves, exaggerated batwings cocooned by a modern-day pinafore, hand-stitched embroidered detailing in many of her pieces — fabricated in either pure Philippine cotton woven by Bontoc weaves from Baguio City or piña crafted in Kalibo Aklan. “Each piece is a page of culture immortalized,” shares the designer, “paying a romantic reverence to creative Filipino artisanship in a contemporary lifestyle.” 

This season, Gabbie Sarenas expands her design oeuvre — making a case for all-day, everyday piña dressing.

YSTYLE: How long have you been designing?

GABBIE SARENAS: I started designing and experimenting when I was in school. After three years, I interned and worked for Hindy Weber Tantoco. But I officially started my label two years ago.

When I was in high school, I loved fashion a lot. I remember drawing sketches of clothes on the back of my notebook. I even designed my own senior prom gown (which is a 1950s silhouette gown that has a polka-dot print fabric — timeless and still very “me” even after more than 10 years).

After a couple of years in a traditional school, I decided to take the plunge and study fashion to see what were my chances in 2008. I loved everything about it — the challenges, the education, the environment. I pushed for getting my bachelor’s degree in this school. At that point, I knew that this is something that I wanted to do for the rest of my life. Up to this point, when I make my clients happy and when they tell me that they love what I do for them, that validates my dream and passion of becoming a designer.

What was the inspiration behind your collection?

Rice is a staple food for Filipinos. The planting and harvesting of this plant has many traditions and various rituals that are done to ensure the fruitful and bountiful harvest. Coming from last season’s Pintuho collection, we delve into the tedious process before claiming the fruits of the harvest.

Pagtánom is a tribute that showcases one of many rituals that shape Philippine farming. Pagtánom (transplanting) is one of the rituals done a month after the act of pagsábod (sowing). This season, we interpret and pay homage to one of the processes of Filipino farmers and their labor of love.

The collection implements the usage of pure Philippine cotton woven by Bontoc weavers from Baguio City and piña shift crafted in Kalibo, Aklan. The collection features hand-embroidered prayers by rice planters to the seedlings to grow luxuriantly and the early Filipino farmer’s helper and patron — the stars and the moon. Together, prayerfully waiting for a fruitful harvest, they wish for fertility. Colorful tuko (gecko), which is one of the symbols of fertility, are handstitched on the pieces together, along with the farmers’ chants for its seedlings:

Humangad ka ban bulan

Sumunod ka ban panuigon

Kay ban Paraon ka nag gabi

Kan San Isidro nga parauma

(Look upward to the moon above;

Be swayed by seasons’ smile and sob;

For thou wert by Pharaoh sold;

Seeds of San Isidro of old.)

Each piece is a page of culture immortalized and pays romantic reverence to creative Filipino artisanship in a contemporary lifestyle.

What were your references when you were conceptualizing this collection?

I did manual research for the concept of this collection from Richard Avens’ book The Rice Ritual in the East Visayan Islands, Philippines. I also got advice from industry professionals and mentors.

Is there something new from this collection that you haven’t done before in your previous ones?

Yes, we did something different with the creative process — from research to experimenting more on the sleeves to hand embroidery in freestyle way. This collection has a heavier use of local fabrics and the widths of the fabrics vary so we had to find a way to maximize as well as lessen fabric waste creatively.

Who is the Gabbie Sarenas woman?

Someone who is cultured.

How do you think you’ve grown since your first collection?

In the creative and business side. I’ve been more observant, intuitive, inquisitive, and inspired.

How do you see yourself five years from now?

I still see myself continuously growing, developing and experimenting — and I look forward to that. I see our brand expanding slowly but surely. Have an atelier and a stockist, too! Maybe also delve into menswear.

What’s next for your brand?

We will still continue to create collections and shows. We are excited for that! Our next one will be with ArteFino this August.

Photos by CENON NORIAL III

Styled by MELVIN MOJICA

Modeled by JO-ANN BITAGCOL