The New New

Bea Samson

MANILA, Philippines - What was your inspiration for your new collection?

The traje de mestiza and terno are my inspirations. As much as there is the history of the “dress” that might have happened in many places around the world, I believe the aesthetic of the traje de mestiza and terno are very special, and even different. They are fine creations — in terms of silhouettes, craftsmanship, quality and attention to detail. There is a way of folding certain pieces of the look, and there are several layers of clothing that complete the look. I wanted to adapt these classic styles to more wearable pieces today. I wanted to capture the sense of elegance of the traje de mestiza and terno, and make them wearable. I want to show that despite the need to adapt to the weather and to be more practical or cost-conscious, we can still make beautiful, classic and fine pieces that are not reserved just for special occasions. We can still project all that class, beauty and craftsmanship of what we used to see on the traje de mestiza and terno. Aesthetics don’t necessarily have to change just as the generations before us have adapted European high fashion to suit our weather and lifestyle. I want to apply the same aesthetic we have before to our current tropical and even economic climate today.

Can you tell us about this season’s woman? She constantly incorporates activewear into her wardrobe of classic and trendy pieces. Comfort and style are both equally important.

How is your new collection similar or different from your last collection? This new collection is very different from my previous ones. The silhouettes of the garments are more fitted and meant to embrace the shape of a woman’s body. Producing the collection was a challenge and labor-intensive. There was a lot of hand stitching involved. The lines of the checkered and striped fabrics had to match as well. It also was my first time to work on custom hats.

How do you describe the local fashion in today’s youth culture?

I think today’s youth is very trend-conscious, into fast fashion, and highly influenced by social media.

 What do you think is your contribution to the fashion industry? I think my best contribution is my style of creating tasteful and well-crafted clothes, while incorporating classic styles and adapting them to be more wearable, modern pieces to suit our current tropical and even economic climate. Fast fashion has posed a great challenge to designers, but I am trying to bring back the demand for unique, beautiful, bespoke creations.

Who among the local designers do you look up to?

My favorite local designer would have to be Chito Vijandre. I believe his work is brilliant and fascinating. His style is very sophisticated and tasteful. I’ve seen some of his creations during the “Slim’s at 50” fashion show in 2011. I really love how he combines different materials and makes them work together to create a beautiful, cohesive and well-made collection. Even the items he sells in his stores are very curated, interesting, unique and special.

How do you see your brand/label in the next five years?

I see my brand to be continuously innovating, growing, and still keeping the promise of creating products that express beauty and class, fine craftsmanship, sophisticated taste and intelligent design. I also see my brand as continuously promoting Filipino talent globally and establishing quality fashion manufacturing in the Philippines. It’s been part of the plan to have my creations sold through different stockists overseas, and to have collaborations with artists from different genres —may it be fashion, music, and/or art.

Esme Palaganas

What was your inspiration for your new collection?

Restraint — the capsule that I presented for the ball is a push and pull of polar opposites. The bold and the subtle, the volume and textures. But in the sense of self-control, it’s not something you really rely on. The idea started when I was making the gray shift dress piece for an inter-school showcase. I wanted to explore the idea and create more pieces.

What were your references when you were conceptualizing this collection?

Definitely ’60s movies (Audrey Hepburn’s movies specifically Sabrina and Roman Holiday!) and the illustrator Jenny Walton. There’s always a sense of easiness, practicality with the things that they wear and they’re not in jeans and shirts. There’s style and thought. Jenny Walton has this graceful Old World easiness that I want to put in this collection.

Can you tell us about this season’s man/woman? She has a life. She goes out, she works and she parties. She can wear the green sequined skirt and pair it with a T-shirt and go drink at an event with an Old Fashioned or Negroni. She can wear the gray-pink tube top with a pair of high-waist denim jeans and meet people for coffee. This collection is the crazy part of her varied wardrobe. She isn’t going anywhere. She’s just merely living her life and does not let the clothes dictate where or what she’s going. She can dress up and dress down. She’s easy. She mixes and matches. 

How is your new collection similar or different from your last collection?

It’s very similar to my previous collections in silhouette. My silhouette always has a familiarity, I want people to feel like they’ve seen it before but looking up close you know there’s something different, unusual, peculiar about it — whether the textile or fabric manipulation. It’s very different in colors and textures. Teal! Neon green! Pink! My team was really surprised when I took out the sequined tulle! 

What do you think is your best contribution to the fashion industry?

In the past two years that I’ve been doing collections, I try to push the boundaries when it comes to textile and concept. I tried the “omnichannel” approach when we launched the collection for Religion Black. I gravitated toward my love for literature and Philippine costume and made it relatable and wearable. I try not to be dictated by trends and just put out my voice through clothes. I think it takes a lifetime to contribute something. Right now, with my fellow awardees we just do what we do and are lucky enough to inspire people along the way.

How do you describe the local fashion in today’s youth culture?

Varied. I think this certain youth/generation hates labels (oh, in love and in life!). They don’t want to be branded as a certain subculture. They embrace it, all kinds of it but they don’t want that to dictate who they are. Especially since we are influenced by so many things — Korean, Western, Japanese, music, movies, subcultures, mainstream fashion. Philippine fashion is young and thriving and we’re still figuring out who we are. The look, it’s pretty exciting. 

Who among the local designers do you look up to, and why?

Joey Samson’s designs make me feel excited even if I know he’s a minimal designer. Rajo (Laurel) in terms of the business savvy aspect of his empire and several streetwear labels whose collections are very well thought-out. 

How do you see your brand/label in the next five years?

With a bigger team — sales, merchandising, design — and still churning out ideas.

Proudrace

What was your inspiration for your new collection?

Hand-me-downs, thrift store clothes and oversized athletic wear were the main inspirations for this collection. We were also inspired by deconstruction and reconstruction to transform staple pieces into new silhouettes.

What were your references when you were conceptualizing this collection? We were  watching a lot of Filipino movies that were made in the ’80s and the ’70s. Everyone looked so stylish without even trying. It was effortless. A simple laboratory gown looked chic in that color grading. Also we referenced a lot of our pieces from the past collections and some thrifted clothes from the ’80s and the ’90s and we reworked them to make new patterns that are still very Proudrace in its DNA.

Can you tell us about this season’s man?

He’s the boss and he’s going to steal your babe.

How is your new collection similar or different from your last collection?

Our collections are always connected with each other. I would like to think that it just transitions into some pieces that you can add from the past collections. We played a lot with texture this season and experimented with using vintage fabrics that we sourced like velvet and corduroy. It’s definitely our heaviest collection so far… literally. The outerwear and accessories are really heavy; our arms get tired from carrying it.

How do you describe the local fashion in today’s youth culture?

It’s the social media generation. Everyone’s more aware now of the underground culture. I think for independent local labels this is a good thing because there’s a bigger reach for the indie brands. People are more experimental with their personal style.

What do you think is your contribution to the fashion industry?

Every time we hear stories of new brands about why they started their own label because of Proudrace, and how they want to go global like we did. I always give myself an imaginary pat on the back. I think that testament is enough for us to be proud.

Who among the local designers do you look up to, and why?

All the local independent brands who dream big and work hard!

How do you see your brand/label in the next five years?

Hopefully still in cool people’s closets.

Randolf Clothing

What was your inspiration for your new collection?

I was inspired by the idea of being lost. When developing a collection, I always have a soundtrack or a particular movie where I get inspiration. For this collection, I was inspired by the movie Frank (and its soundtrack), Napoleon Dynamite, the song Lost in The World by Kanye and M83’s Soon My Friend. It took me more than five months to finally develop this collection, because I myself was also lost. (Laughs)

What were your references when you were conceptualizing this collection?

I always look at the ’50s and ’80s for reference because I’ve always seen those two eras as exciting and revolutionary. Some of my main references were the rebels during the ’50s and the punks of the’80s. Tattoos, deconstruction and rebellion were the main ideas for this collection.

Can you tell us about this season’s man and woman?

He is someone who is more open to experimenting. I think this season, it’s all about opening up to possibilities and trying things you’ve always wanted to do but were afraid to do.

How is your new collection similar or different from your last collection?

This collection is somehow a continuation of the previous one. First Crash, our previous collection, is about that feeling of “firsts” — crushes, loves and heartbreaks. This collection (“Hero, He Rows”) is basically about finding that inner hero in yourself and learning that the only person who can save yourself is yourself. In terms of designs and prints, some of the pieces in this collection are tweaked styles from previous ones.

How do you describe the local fashion in today’s youth culture?

Local fashion today is more curious and accepting of independent brands.

What do you think is your contribution to the fashion industry?

There is a new wave of designers and brands in the country now and I think my best contribution, as a ready-to-wear designer, is being a part of that group of designers who focus on ready to wear. The local industry is embracing us and I think it’s a big step.

Who among the local designers do you look up to, and why?

Veluz is one of the designers who has an eye that a simple imperfection cannot escape, and I love that about her. I look up to her because she has that balance of creativity, technicality and business-mindedness. She’s also started a particular trend among bridal designers here in the country. I’ve always thought all wedding gowns look the same and never paid much attention until I saw her works.

I’ve been a fan of Mich Dulce since high school, both her clothing line and band Death by Tampon. I think she’s one of those designers that really fight for what she likes and believes in. I look up to her because I also want to make it outside the country, and she is the perfect peg for that.

Proudrace. I think this brand is probably one of the reasons why independent ready-to-wear brands are being accepted by the industry today. Also, their clothes are always effortlessly cool; whatever they give, we accept. (Laughs) Pat and Rik have shown me that indie streetwear brands can make it here and abroad.

Gian Romano. One of the things I like about brands/designers is when you don’t have to ask who made them because it has an identity that’s memorable. Gian has that. He does punk here like no one can.

How do you see your brand in the next five years?

I want to have stockists here and abroad. I want Randolf to grow and provide jobs. Be stable.