Ystyle trend report: NYFW

MANILA, Philippines - New York Fashion Week ended to make way for London, Milan and Paris — the clothes, the beauty, the accessories? Most were cause for celebration. Peppy to say the very least. The direction went in either of two directions; unfiltered beauty or unadulterated excess.  #NYFW lit up with a festive mood as both Alexander Wang and Riccardo Tisci celebrate 10 years at the respective houses, the latter transporting his spring/summer 2016 collection from Paris to New York to coincide with the opening of a Givenchy flagship store. Standout collections belong to Francisco Costa’s deconstructed reimagining of the iconic slip dress at Calvin Klein, Peter Copping’s second runway presentation at Oscar de la Renta, and master of ceremonies Marc Jacobs staging his fashion extravaganza with an overlooking marquee at the Ziegfeld Theater. YStyle steeps the trends and scours the shows for a #NYFW runway rundown.

FLOUNCE & FLURRY Proenza Schouler

For spring, Proenza Schouler incorporated subtle Spanish references to stunning effect. Using a palette of black, white and red, the crafty designer duo produced some serious stunners — an exaggerated fishnet dress trimmed with rouge feathers, an asymmetrical ruffled dress in deep scarlet, and velvet bow details on textured jacquard jackets. A reminder that fashion is supposed to be fun.

MODERN MINIMAL Calvin Klein

In true Calvin Klein fashion, Francisco Costa demonstrated cool restraint with long, fluid silhouettes that hark back to ‘90s minimalism. Shredded silk knits worn with languid trousers and satin slip dresses are all dressed down in ivory slip-on sneakers, resulting in looks that are equal parts luxe and relaxed. Deconstructed leather aprons, photographed peony prints, and delicate chains also weave in and out of the collection, lending understated glamour.

SPRING CLEANING Altuzarra

Joseph Altuzarra played to his strengths for spring/summer 2016; chic tailoring for the city woman, slit skirts and sheer paneling that embody the Altuzarra house codes. The designer explored the luxury of natural materials such as linen, cotton and burlap — his detailing intricate; braided jute cording and beaded broderie anglaise. 

UNSCHOOLED Hood By Air

Taking inspiration from his childhood in the Caribbean, where he would alter his school uniform, Shayne Oliver takes Hood By Air back to the classroom setting (the detention room, really) with his take on uniform dressing — radical and totally deconstructed. Cutout shirts, unzipped dresses, elongated sleeves, and spliced pleated skirts reveal more than just skin. All the same but still going against the grain, HBA celebrates individuality among diversity.

FOLKLORIC FANTASY Delpozo

Creative director Jacob Font brings his usual romanticism and fairy-tale proportions to the Spanish house of Delpozo for spring/summer 2016. His inspiration? Federico García Lorca’s Gypsy Ballads and Gustav Klimt’s muse Emilie Flöge. The label offered newness in the form of intricate raffia treated embellishments and bohemian accents. But where Delpozo succeeds is in its own brand of couture-like shapes, crisp pannier skirts with a decidedly folkloric tinge for the season.

AMERICANA SPIRIT Coach

Prairie girl meets ‘70s cowgirl in the first runway show Coach has staged for NYFW. Suede jackets are worn over patchwork micro-floral dresses, dino-print sweaters are paired with mosaic miniskirts, and choice leather carry-ons get collaged. With so much going on, it’s easy to get lost in the hubbub but the label manages to stay right on track, giving a nod to their American heritage with a more playful approach.

SWEET ESCAPE Rosie Assoulin

Rosie Assoulin serves up a day-appropriate version of her signature love of volume and exaggeration for spring/summer 2016; casual overalls, trompe l’oeil bathing suits and sleep wear played into her vernacular. Set against a drained pool, Assoulin’s clothes always capture a sense of fun in surrealist silhouettes — the designer had full-volume shoulder detail and draped skirts, iridescent mesh triangle tops styled on top of a dress or shirt. The look? Poolside glamour.

LACED UP Givenchy

Ricardo Tisci marks his 10th year at Givenchy with a show that was as contemplative as it was powerful. Feminine and masculine elements come together, with neither overpowering the other. Lingerie-inspired pieces — lace kimono coats and silk camisoles — were paired with loose tailored trousers and crepe tuxedo jackets. Sheer couture dresses, feathered and embellished to perfection, are accented with bejeweled facemasks, rounding out the collection.

ORCHID HUSH Oscar de la Renta

For his second showing for Oscar de la Renta (third if you count his resort presentation), creative director Peter Copping shows a Spanish-infused collection that pays homage to the house Oscar built. It was a celebration of color; fiery reds, icy-blue, lilacs and teals. Copping’s spring/summer 2016 offers his view of femininity and sexuality for the modern woman: bold-hued day suits cinched with grosgrain ribbon, emerald shirting set off by a dainty pastel pink belt, and in true Oscar high-style, show-stopping gowns for the uptown set. 

THE MISFITS Rodarte

For spring/summer 2016, Kate and Laura Mulleavy took poetry as their inspiration for their most convincing collection to date. The look was ‘70s nostalgia with small references with an ‘80s tinge — they offered glam-rock lamé jumpsuits paired with suede Deco shoes, crushed velvet ruffles, chubby fur sleeves, styled with sequined silk scarves and black lace tights. The Mulleavys finessed their signature magpie aesthetic into something covetable, for once (a throwback to their stellar creations in the early aughts) — something that  has eluded the label in recent seasons.