Paper weight
A few years ago, it seemed as if publishing industry insiders were one in sounding the death knell for magazines and, inevitably, the entire print business. But what has since become apparent is not the magazine’s demise, but its evolution. Having changed its role from a horizontal mass medium to a vertical niche one, today’s magazines are thriving by becoming increasingly specialized. In the magazine world at least, print has become the new premium form.
The revival is due to the entry of boutique publications such as The Gentlewoman, Fantastic Man, Cereal, Cherry Bombe, Kinfolk and even Hero, Rollacoaster and Hello Mr. These specialty titles have steered clear of the gloss of their mainstream counterparts to deliver a more cohesive, engaging, book-like product. Printed on thick, uncoated paper — and hedging their success on excellent image quality, graphic design and firsthand journalism instead of advertising revenues — these tomes are alternatives for the discerning reader who seeks something tactile, substantial, and non-disposable.
Digital media, the supposed grim reaper of traditional print, has become the greatest enabler of the neo-indie magazine. On the one hand, the Internet has made producing a magazine much easier, from communicating with subjects and finding contributors to connecting with readers. On the other hand, as our social media feeds become overloaded with unread posts, members of the always-on generation have realized there’s something about the physical experience of reading a magazine that glass screens can’t beat.
From Berlin’s 032c to Stockholm’s Contributor, here’s a quick survey of the best and most vibrant of new old media.
Toilet Paper
From: Bologna
Established: 2010
Story: The biannual, picture-based publication is a brainchild of Maurizio Cattelan and photographer Pierpaolo Ferrari. Following in the wake of Cattelan’s cult publication Permanent Food, the title contains no text. Each picture springs from an idea and through abstraction, becoming the materialization of the artists’ mental outbursts.
Intermission
From: Stockholm
Established: 2010
Story: The quarterly trains its spotlight on a compelling mix of designers, artists, musicians and photographers. For instance, Issue 9, the latest, contains articles about new fashion world favorites Marques’Almeida, Jacquemus and Thomas Tait.
Contributor
From: Stockholm
Established: 2008
Story: Published twice a year in keeping with the seasonal cycles of fashion, Contributor is produced by editor in chief Robert Rydberg and creative director Martin Sandberg, alongside teams based in Stockholm, Paris and New York. It aims to create “a world where fashion, life, art and culture are logically combined.” The articles all have a personal, slightly dreamy style to them, and they often come across like sections from a short story or snippets from the writers’ lives. There are also interviews with designers and striking fashion features.
Double
From: Paris
Established: 2000
Story: The dual-cover biannual boasts stunning photography and well-executed features on art and fashion. “What I really like about Double magazine is the way this magazine deals with what it really loves, not only about the latest news or latest trends but mixing with news from the past,” says its editor Fabrice Paineau. Juergen Teller, David Sims and Jamie Hawkesworth have shot some of its pages, while Camille Bidault Waddington, Julia Sarr-Jamois and Max Pearmain have contributed their talents as stylists.
Indie
From: Vienna
Established: 2003
Story: Its main draws include fashion editorials by internationally renowned photographers and portraits of budding talents from the fashion, music and art scene. Editor Kira Stachowitsch moved to Berlin from her hometown of Vienna after years of traveling back and forth running Indie and Material Girl, which are both inspired by cult British style titles such as The Face.
Violet
From: London
Established: 2014
Story: Leaving Lula after eight successful years, stylist Leith Clark and her team launched Violet in spring 2014 with the aim of celebrating women, their curiosity, femininity and style. Violet invites the world’s most talented and highly sought-after female photographers, editors, stylists, artists and writers — such as designer Luella Bartley and activist Sarah Sophie Flicker — to collaborate.
Boys by Girls
From: London
Established: 2011
Story: Hovering between a book and a magazine, the biannual print publication is where female artists explore the beauty of the contemporary young man. Each issue runs with a different title and theme, focusing on menswear and excellent photography.
032c
From: Berlin
Established: 2000
Story: Published twice a year, the pleasingly chunky 032c is a contemporary culture magazine edited by Joerg Koch and art directed by Mike Meiré. It prides itself on challenging its readers and inside you’ll find a diverse set of features and stunning photography, with stories on designers, artists, architects and more.
Hunger
From: London
Established: 2012
Story: With British photographer Rankin as its editor in chief, the biannual publication celebrates creative talent across the UK. “It’s my take on fashion, art, music and everything that basically interests me,” he explained to British Vogue. “I’ve always loved interesting illustration and artwork and, throughout my career as a photographer and publisher, I’ve been collaborating with people from different creative backgrounds.”
System
From: London
Established: 2013
Story: Commenting on fashion’s constantly shifting landscape, the biannual offers exclusive long-format conversations with the industry’s most relevant individuals, accompanied by portfolios created by the most in-demand photographers. System was the title that scored Nicolas Ghesquière’s first ever post-Balenciaga interview two years ago. As founder Elizabeth Von Guttman told The Coveteur, “We wanted to convey those dialogues at the heart of fashion — the conversations about ‘what we do’ that don’t necessarily make it to print.”
