A journey to once upon a time

MANILA, Philippines - We could have not prayed for a more beautiful morning!

And as such, from our base city of Naples in Southern Italy, we went on a leisurely drive through the picturesque Amalfi Coast, greeted by coastal mountains with wind-shaped crags and lush forests atop soaring ridges.

This scenic road trip through the UNESCO World Heritage Site led us to the laid-back greenery of Le Colline di Sorrento, situated above steep cliffs, with a vast verdant yard which boasted of blood-orange groves, rows of aged olive trees, a garden of aromatic flowers, fresh fruits and succulent vegetables, and a specialty restaurant with a majestic view.

We were served an antipasti platter, with a selection of homemade cheeses, an assortment of cured cold cuts from traditional recipes and other bite-sized delicacies, all sourced from their very own farm. It was definitely a rustic, feel-good morning snack.

Leaving behind the precipitous ridges and coastal shores, we headed to the sophisticated summer town of Sorrento. We scoured the Chiesa Cathedral, which featured reverent frescos and an ages-old consecrated altar.

Our regrettably short stopover in Sorrento was followed by a paseo through the charming and quaint commune of Positano.

What used to be a relatively modest fishing village has now blossomed into a thriving holiday destination. The late author John Steinbeck went into detail, in an issue of Harper’s Bazaar, on its seemingly unexplainable magical allure.

Its steep streets are lined with aesthetically-pleasing establishments, sun-kissed houses with terracotta wares, as well as posh boutiques with the latest fashion items.

Through the years, this intriguing enclave has been a common setting for several films, to include Norman Jewison’s Only You, Audrey Wells’ Under the Tuscan Sun and Ted Emery’s Kath and Kimderella. And we were instantly convinced why it has been, again and again, the ideal choice.

Our terminus of the day was the ancient city of Pompeii. The first detour in the Megalopolis of yore was a little shop known as Cellini Coralli and Cammei, where we observed local craftsmen extremely engrossed in their own personal stations, shaping meticulous motifs on precious materials.

An artist led us to a live cameo carving demonstration. We marvelled at the strenuous yet delicate work that went into every single masterpiece. We later found ourselves in a fascinating museum with a myriad of their creations, which ranged in patterns and shapes, sizes and colors.

It was time for a walk through time when we set foot in the Pompeii Ruins itself – a land seemingly frozen in time, a living, breathing, historical artifact that was once totally buried in volcanic ash and pumice due to the infamous Mount Vesuvius eruption in AD 79.

We were immediately taken aback by the huge imposing statues, reminiscent of the city’s old glory, scattered all over the ash-strewn streets and structures.

We first explored the enduring ampitheater, the oldest of all the Roman-influenced colosseums. The pioneer to have been built by stone – all previous iterations were made of wood – it is lauded as near optimal by specialists and is considered a major influence for modern crowd control theory. Its washrooms are even the reference on how the stadiums of today laid theirs out.

Often the subject of extensive architectural studies, as well as a historical landmark, it has been utilized as a public events venue in more recent times. Just imagine yourself enjoying a concert while overlooking the starry skies of Italy above you – absolutely lovely!

We were stunned, shocked and speechless – to say the least – when we next meandered through the various rooms and chambers that displayed the preserved remnants of the unfortunate wrath of Vesuvius. Hundreds, if not thousands, of victims were frozen on the spot. We were deeply saddened when we noticed restored plaster casts of those affected by one of the largest natural disasters of bygone days.

Finally, to cap off the trip, we sauntered through a seemingly alien world when we found ourselves at the Temple of Apollo, the most important religious building in the complex. The God of Music, Poetry and the Arts gathered such a huge following, that the grandest worship site had been dedicated to him.

Patterns within the area show that it used to be enclosed on all four sides with several columns, which have been destroyed by frequent latter-day earthquakes. A stairway into the now-nonexistent altar has likewise endured the rough years, for it is still a focal point. However, what stood out most for me, was a sculpture of the Roman and Greek deity which has stood the test of time. Call it the supernatural, or the divine – we may never know.

We paid our respects to the revered idol as we went on our way out of the lost city. Far off in the distance, we could make out the silhouette of Mount Vesuvius, truly an awe-inspiring landmark, and definitely an apt sight to end our journey through the breathtaking wonders of the modern era, and of once upon a time. Photos by Edu Jarque