Hue shares its secrets
MANILA, Philippines - We are all too familiar with Vietnam’s two most popular destinations: Hanoi, its capital, in the north, and Ho Chi Minh City, a.k.a. Saigon, in the south.
But on a recent trip to ’Nam, the colloquial name of the country, on a four-day Asian cruise on board the Royal Caribbean International’s Voyager of the Seas, we decided to explore one of its hidden gems: imperial Hue. From the Chan May Port, we took a two-hour leisurely drive to romantic Thành Pho Hue.
Located in the central region of the nation – approximately 700 kilometers from both Saigon and Ho Chi Minh – Hue is the former seat of government for over a century and one of only seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the country.
We visited two major attractions of the district, namely the picturesque Thien Mu Pagoda, the most historic building of the region, together with its many temples and gardens; and the imposing 19th-century Citadel, surrounded by a snaking moat and wide fortifications, like our very own Intramuros.
Our first stop was the Thien Mu Pagoda, a seven-story Buddhist temple built in the 16th century, erected due to a prophecy.
According to local folklore, a Thien Mu – literally a celestial lady – draped in red and blue robes sat at the location of the now-shrine, and foretold the arrival of a lord who would eventually raise a house of meditation on the hill for the country’s future prosperity.
The most striking feature of the expanse was a similar seven-floor, octagonal tower hidden deep inside the worship site, known as the Phuoc Duyen Tower. Majestically standing at 21 meters high, each floor is dedicated to a different Buddha. It is so iconic, it is widely regarded as the unofficial symbol of the city.
As we walked past more tranquil sanctuaries, we noticed barefooted monks chanting a droning, hypnotic prayer, while continuously circling around a sacred revered relic.
What caught our eye next was the Austin Westminster sedan, the ride to Saigon of Thich Quang Duc, a religious leader who immolated himself in 1963 as an act of protest against the powerful Diem regime. His bravery ignited a series of fiery sacrifices by the clergy, which put the plight of Buddhists in the global spotlight. A photograph of this dissent was widely circulated, and eventually won the coveted Pulitzer Prize.
After our spiritual revelation, it was now time to drop by the Citadel, a well-kept fortress which served as the home of several emperors and their royal families, aristocrats, mandarins, concubines and eunuchs.
A deep moat full of lilies embraced the area, which I imagine would have made it near-impenetrable during days gone by. As we crossed the bridge towards the entrance, we admired the Cot Co Flag Tower which, after the landmark’s complete destruction during the Vietnam War, now proudly displays the banner of a free country.
As we approached the Gate of Noon – with intricate detail of the roof, divided into nine parts, flanked by various evil-warding animals and creatures, with a yellow and emerald green finish – I noticed five different entrances: the Grand Center exclusively for the monarch and his kin, two slightly smaller ones reserved for the soldiers and their horses and two arches on the sides for commoners.
The upper level of the passageway, we soon found out, was a two-tiered palace called the Balcony of the Phoenix Five, which served as the observation deck of the rulers and officials, where they intently watched and studied the maneuvers of the army.
We continued our saunter through the cobblestone pavements and headed for a majestic chateau, dubbed as the Palace of Supreme Harmony, which hosted the royal throne of the Nguyen emperors. We stood in awe at the 80 columns of red lacquered wood which featured a golden dragon, the emblem of the particular dynasty.
The more-than-just-a-mansion, likewise crowned by mythical beasts said to repel bad spirits, was the main venue to commemorate milestones of the members of royalty, the designated reception area to welcome various ambassadors and granting of awards, simply because it was the most impressive castle in the mini-metropolis.
It appeared that some select members of the royal family had their own respective dedicated residences. Passing through the Duc Chuong Gate, with curious patterns of flowers, birds and other critters enveloping the archways and columns, led us to the domicile of the Mother Queen.
We moved on to the Hung Mieu Temple, a place of honor for parents of the sovereign lineage. However, a huge empty damaged courtyard may be seen as a testimony to the devastation of persistent bombings. It has since been partly restored, but the scars of history are still very much evident.
With sufficient time left, we meandered by a huge and peaceful lake, with water sourced from the nearby Perfume River. In autumn, flowers from orchards in Northern Hue fall into the torrent, which gives it an aroma akin to perfume. We later crossed a stone bridge to reach the Summer Palace for the ruler and his wives, and perhaps at times his concubines. It is clear that the emperor could have taken a boat to cross the lake and hunt small game as his past time.
Strange as it may seem, while still alive, the longest reigning monarch of the Nguyen bloodline had his own mausoleum built, a simple yet special catacomb, engulfed by concrete on all four sides, which felt extremely secure and solemn, called the Tu Duc Tomb, his proposed final resting place. To the east, we gazed upon his self-written epitaph which highlighted the deeds of his reign.
Up to this day, his burial vault has remained a mystery. Our knowledgeable tour guide briefed us on a popular rumor: the remains of Tu Duc were actually buried in a different, secret location somewhere else.
Nonetheless, we whispered a short prayer and headed back to our ship, wondering, “Could it be possible that we’ve actually seen an empty king’s grave and not realized it?” Photos by EDU JARQUE
