Vakul: Symbol of survival
MANILA, Philippines – The silence and tranquility that Batanes is known for was broken momentarily when the Ivatans celebrated the 1st Vakul Kanayi Festival on Sabtang island from April 25 to 27.
Being the first of its kind, there was much excitement surrounding the island and its six barangays.
Locals and guests from nearby islands enjoyed games familiar to any fiesta, such as catch the piglet, catch the goat and catch the chicken. Each catch was gleefully taken away by their new owners, perhaps to be prepared and shared with neighbors on the last day of the fiesta.
There was a fun run and a fun bike marathon as well – won by the local police chief who got his training from regularly cycling from end to end of the island everyday, for lack of better things to do, as Batanes has a zero percent crime rate. The local police also leads kids in doing Zumba as part of their community projects.
There was a parade that wove through the six barangays – a short parade, but one that was well attended with people from the whole island, literally, lining the streets to enjoy the street dancing and ogle at the floats which featured the Batanes traditional stone houses with thatched roofs.
The locals also celebrated Ivatans who were visiting from abroad with a balikbayan night filled with song and dance, many of them singing along nostalgically to old songs that they had grown up with. Some teenagers also performed more contemporary songs to the delight of the youngsters. The night ended with a fireworks display that was rivaled only by the myriad stars over the island.
The agri-trade stalls were bustling with life on the first day of the festival, each showcasing the best from each barangay, from giant squash to dried fish, to samples of what the festival was celebrating – the vakul and kanayi – in different sizes, even with a tiny doll-sized version for the family’s Sto. Niño.
The vakul headdress and kanayi vests are worn by Ivatan farmers, the vest for men and the headgear for women. These are made from the leaves of vuyavuy, a tree endemic to Batanes.
The vakul shades farmers from the rays of the sun and is waterproof too, providing shelter from rain. Farmers are said to tuck matches and other small items on the inside of the vakul to keep them safe and dry. The vakul can also double as a mat for babies, or a small pillow when farmers have to take a rest in the fields.
The vakul and kanayi motif was evident throughout each of the four groups from the different barangays that took part in the street dancing parade and dance showdown.
For first timers, it was impressive to see each group’s performance, especially after witnessing them stay up late to practice their routines in the days that preceded the festival.
One group featured the fishing culture of the Island with blue skirts that could be flipped to show an aquatic scene and props that transformed from the bountiful flying fish to the popular dried fish.
Another group depicted the story of how their local heroes fought against the Spaniards.
The winning group was the most successful in showcasing the vakul and kanayi, incorporating the pieces into their choreography seamlessly. They also venerated San Vicente in their routine, whose feast day coincides with the festival.
The vakul has, deservingly, become an image synonymous with Batanes. It is not only something the looks unique, completing the romance of the rolling hills of Batanes. Beyond that, it exemplifies the spirit of the Ivatan. Every detail of their lives is centered around survival. From drying fish so that they may have food to eat when the waves become too treacherous, to building houses of solid stone that can stand up to the fiercest of storms. The vakul likewise reflects a simplicity and beauty valued in the life of the Ivatans, a place where traditions are kept sacred, largely unspoiled by technology and commercialism.
