La Union’s new wave

MANILA, Philippines – La Union has gained a well-deserved reputation for its waves, drawing surfers from all corners of the world to its shores, but residents of the province hope that visitors see that there is so much more to La Union than great swells.

“Surfing is a good thing, but at the same time, naging stereotype na. We’re much more,” says Marika “Maka” Chan Pinco, the recently-elected president of the La Union Conventions and Visitor Bureau (LUCVB). With her green-tipped hair, the young woman exudes the cool lifestyle that she loves about her hometown as she leads a new wave of tourism in La Union.

“It’s quiet… it’s just chill,” she says over drinks at Surf Shack. Maka adds, “There’s no pressure here,” joking that the only pressure she feels comes from leading the LUCVB.

During her two-year term, Maka has quite a few major plans to help promote some of what she calls the hidden gems of La Union. On the top of her list is developing the arts and culture of the province.

The arts scene in the province is growing stronger with the help of the Artists Guild of La Union (AGLAUN). The 20-strong group conducts art workshops and raises funds for the artists. They find a home in Silid ti Adal Ken Laing ti La Union Gallery, in San Fernando, La Union, which is small but brimming with the members’ works.

The distinct multimedia works of Rodel Rillera as well as the paintings of other AGLAUN members are displayed prominently in L.U. BBQ – the “L.U.” standing not only for the province, but also “lutong uling” (cooked with charcoal) and “luto ni Ulang” (grandma’s cooking).

The Ilokano-inspired fare that uses locally sourced ingredients features dinakdakan which is cooked the traditional way with pig’s brain and vinegar and a flavorful twist on insarabasab, grilled pork belly with a marinade that includes tomatoes, onions and chillies. Owner Michael Ross Nisce recommends the chuletas pork chop based on his grandmother’s recipe.

Aside from supporting local visual artists, L.U. BBQ also features musicians and some angsty young spoken word performers from St. Louis College who echo the sentiments of Maka – that they are much more than a surfing town.

“We are activating the youth organizations to inspire them to become part of the community,” Maka adds. “We want to tap the potential of the youth in the province and develop them so later they can become part of the major organizations of the province.” La Union will also host the National Conference of the Philippine Jaycees this year.

“There are more places to be discovered, they are hidden gems,” says Maka. Among these is Tangadan Falls in San Gabriel. While in the past months the falls have become more accessible with paved roads, it is still quite a trek from the jump off point to the falls. A dip in the refreshing water is a most welcome reward. You may even hire a bamboo raft to take you directly underneath the rushing falls.

Aside from ecotourism, Maka is also particularly proud of the new food establishments that have sprouted in the area. Aside from barbecue, La Union has something for every taste. La Union’s newest place to be is Planet G, a complex of restaurants such as Raven’s Nest and Kaizen Izakaya. There is also a videoke room and overnight accommodations, perhaps for those who have partied too hard at the newest club, Clique. When the bar is not busy serving up cocktails and shots, ask the bartender to do some awesome magic tricks for you.

Along the same strip is the newly-opened Mad Monkeys with a straightforward menu: the Mad Monkeys burger and fries – take it or leave it. Good thing they just might be the best burgers in town, with juicy patties and thick cut fries. The secret is in the sauce at Mad Monkeys. The burgers are smothered in beer cheese sauce and the fries come with a flavorful Sriracha mayo. Owner Mateo Fabregas oversees the operation himself. He came to La Union for the surfing and ended up falling in love with the place and never wanting to leave.

Not far from the burger joint is Surf Shack where one can take in that chill lifestyle that everyone is raving about, with cocktails like Bang Da Bass which uses the potent basi sugarcane wine, and local craft beers including strawberry beer from Baguio. Surf Shack’s pizzas also showcase the best of La Union with the Bacnotan longganisa pizza with egg and Mommy Lu’s tuyo pizza drizzled with local honey for the perfect balance of salty and sweet.

You can learn more about harvesting fresh honey at the La Union Honeybee Center where knowledgeable guides give a tour of the honeybee farm where you can brave an up-close look at the colonies, and even taste honey straight from comb.

The salty tuyo, on the other hand, is from the restaurant that the pizza is named after, Mommy Lu’s. A mainstay on the La Union dining front, Mommy Lu’s is a family-run business which has been serving the LU crowd for 15 years now, starting as a small canteen. With its quaint ambience created by an eclectic mix of antiques collected by the owners on their travels, Mommy Lu’s will make you feel right at home.

Another family-owned restaurant worth trying in La Union is Cube-O Grill. The name, a play on the traditional Filipino kubo, hints at the restaurant’s out-of-the-box take on Ilokano food. For those traveling in hungry groups, the Cube-O Salo-salo is your best bet. Good for six, the meal comes with plain, garlic tuyo and Cube-o rice, and three delicious viands.

But perhaps the best way to savor the food – and the lifestyle – in La Union is on the beach, roasting hotdogs and marshmallows over a campfire, having a cold beer with friends or just reflecting on your own as you watch the sunset paint a surreal scene on the ocean. Surfing may bring you here and the waves will beckon you back, but there are many, many more hidden gems in La Union that will make you want to stay.

Contact the LUCVB at 0917-8788131 to plan your next vacation. Photos by Martin San diego