Dreams of Bagan

MANILA, Philippines - It was during a travel conference in the early days of Myanmar’s acceptance as an ASEAN member state that I had the privilege to explore Bagan for the first time.

After days of presentations and discussions on the trajectory of travel and tourism for the region, we had a free day devoted to a city tour of Yangon, which primarily involved shopping. However, we could not ignore the mantra, If you have not been to Bagan, you have not seen Myanmar. So we braved a flight at dawn and returned at dusk on a trip that took us to a world that seemed suspended in time.

The journey took less than an hour and while still on the plane, from the window, we witnessed the sunrise at its most beautiful. Between the low clouds, we caught glimpses of temple after temple shrouded in mist. I had never seen anything like it. Though I had an idea of what the collection of historical and spiritual architecture would look like, nothing – absolutely nothing – prepares one for Bagan.

In the company of three other Filipino delegates, we were given an exclusive tour of the structures. In each we had to be barefoot, as a sign of respect.

We climbed up every stupa we could. We were younger then – so much younger – as this was back in those days when we were in better shape and our legs and joints could still deliver the goods. At times we were led down with a flashlight through dark interiors, very much like a descent into subterranean caves.

It was a case of going from point A to B, so there was a sense of hurriedness. But when we arrived at a temple, stupa or pagoda, we were given a chance to explore in detail. I don’t even remember where we had breakfast or lunch, if we even had any, as we couldn‘t waste even a minute on seemingly pointless things.

It was a whole new experience at every stop. Each was unique and we marveled and gasped in awe of all that we encountered, and history unfolded before all our senses as we held on to every word spoken by our guide.

Before we knew it, we had to make our way back to the airport for the last flight to Yangon. Even then we were not let down as the sky put on a spectacular farewell show of light and colors I can never forget, as we ended a marvelous day. I promised myself that I shall return someday, and I recently had the chance to fulfill this dream.

Just before the height of the monsoon rains, I went on a five-day tour to revisit the monuments and to discover more of Myanmar’s ancient city. 

Formerly called Pagan, Bagan is located in the Mandalay region, whose kingdom reached its peak in the span of the 11th and 13th centuries. More than 10,000 Buddhist temples, monasteries, stupas and pagodas were built.

Only approximately a fourth of that number remains today in various states of preservation and disrepair. This gave birth to the Bagan Archaeological Zone, the main pull for tourists and travelers. Its majestic sights and historical relevance are considered by many to be equal to Angkor Wat in Cambodia and Borobudur in Indonesia. Awaiting word, a proposal for it to be declared a World Heritage Site has been sent to UNESCO.

The fascination reemerged as I was overcome with nostalgia as we landed. With four travel companions – all of them first time visitors – we immediately dropped our luggage at the Bagan Thiripyitsaya Sanctuary Resort and I embarked on a quest to rediscover this enchanting domain.

I noted that it has progressed much from my previous visit. The airport and road networks have improved, and there was even Internet now, when in the past phones automatically ceased to function once you entered the territory.

There were four must-see sites of our choice. The grandest was the Ananda Temple built in 1105 AD, famous for its cruciform structure and multilevel terraces that lead to a pagoda covered by a hti, an umbrella that is used as an ornament for most pagodas.

It houses four standing Buddhas facing the cardinal points, and it is considered the Westminster Abbey of Myanmar. Like a museum, it contains fine examples of Burmese artistic skill, from architecture to woodcarving to glazed plaques. Its name is said to mean “very beautiful” in Sanskrit and in Pali, “the endless wisdom of Buddha.”

We moved on to the relatively smaller and durian-shaped Gu Byuak Gyi, one of the oldest which contains 547 paintings of Jatakas, or the tales of Buddha’s past lives, and one had to use a flashlight to view the artwork, done as frescoes. There is a depiction of Gautama Buddha and his reception of a divine prophesy from his earlier reincarnations and another of his journeys to enlightenment.

There was a marker for the vandalism that occurred in 1899, when a portion of the murals was taken away by a now infamous delinquent, a German remembered as Mr. Thomann.

Shwezigon Pagoda followed, a circular stupa made splendid with gold-leaf appliqués and its surrounding shrines. Its dimensions, similar to a gigantic, magnificent gourd, were determined to be the prototype of the Shwedagon in Yangon. So immense is the edifice, it is said that if a large ceremonial drum is struck on one side, it cannot be heard on the other. Upon closer study, one will observe lotus motifs on its bell-shaped dome, along with the “wonders” of the pagoda, such as the perpetually blooming Khayey and Chayar trees, and the shadows within the walls that seem to never change position.

Lastly, we went to the Shwe San Daw Pagoda, with a number of platforms, a cylindrical stupa and hti encrusted with jewels. Within its walls are the sacred hairs of the Gautama Buddha, enshrined in reverence to the spiritual figure.

One particular challenge is to climb up the steps of the temple, which becomes steeper with narrower steps after the fourth flight of stairs. Though probably a walk in the park for the youth, we chose not to test ourselves and remained at a less inclined layer, where the view was just as spectacular. It is likewise best known as the Sunset Temple because it is a sight to behold just before twilight.

One can never tire of the temples!

The call to explore further was hard to ignore. In some complexes with smaller versions, we took a horse-drawn carriage through narrow alleys. A cruise along the Irrawaddy River would give a different perspective, as more temples could be seen in line with the landscape. Even our hotel’s environs played host to conserved shrines, where we strolled in tranquil silence.

As we drove at night from dinner, many temples were lit and the atmosphere became entirely new, as one is transported to a glowing world of fantasy and the dreams of Bagan.