A tribute to Señor Alba

What exactly is the legacy of Señor Alba? When Filipinos were cooking adobo and ginisa dishes, the Señor worked tirelessly in his kitchen, introduced Spanish cuisine to the gourmand Pinoys and produced what would be an institutional dish, paella.

We have just lost a pillar in our culinary world. Señor Anastacio de Alba has passed on, leaving behind a legacy that would be hard to duplicate. In our youth, growing up in a small but progressive town, a town fiesta would always bring cocineros/cosineras on their feet, practically vying with each other for the honor of serving the best food for locals and guests. Fiesta rice was always at the center of any dining table. We remember bringhe, the yellowish dish done with turmeric and fresh oregano leaves, and Arroz Valenciana, no doubt  brought in by the Spanish conquistadores.

Then in the 60s came a young man from Avila, Spain – Anastacio de Alba, plucked from Chipen restaurant in Madrid where he was already cooking by a couple of prominent Filipino gentlemen and brought to Manila. He got employed at the Casino Español, a much welcome addition to its kitchen atelier where only a Chinese speaking chef was doing the food service.

That started the Alba career which soared high, gained discriminating approval from the elite gourmets of Manila who discovered how to enjoy the real, authentic paella. We were among the lucky ones who had the chance to relish the Alba paella at Casino Español. 

In the course of his career in Manila there were successes and failures, there were the restaurants established and closed around the city. We are not aware if Casino Español still exists.

But after a long while, to our delight, Casa Alba resurrected in Westgate Alabang. Today it continues to serve the unequalled Alba paella and cochinillo. His son Chef Miguel has been passed the torch and we must say he is doing justice to what his father left him.

What exactly is the legacy of Señor Alba? When Filipinos were cooking adobo and all the ginisa (sautéd)  dishes, the Señor worked tirelessly in his kitchen, introduced Spanish cuisine to the gourmand Pinoys and produced what would be an institutional dish, paella.

He continued innovating – offering a selection of paella specialties that incorporated lamb, sisig and cochinillo, even adobo. An Alba Cookbook carries all his paella recipes, plus others.

But most of all, he was a man with a gentle heart. He patiently trained his staff when they knew nothing about Spanish cooking, he shared the Filipinos’ dream of a peaceful country, he was in EDSA 1 and, most of all, he embraced Filipino citizenship, our culture and our love for fine food.   

May you rest in peace, Señor Alba.

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