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Starweek Magazine

What exactly is foie gras?

- Lydia Castillo - The Philippine Star

The Philippines is no exception, we know of a lot of people who savor the earthy taste and silky texture of this precious liver, which goes through a tedious process before it gets to the dining table.

It is goose liver – made into a very rare and expensive delicacy that was first introduced in Alsace and Perigord in France. Literally it means “fat liver.” The goose belongs to the species of flat-footed birds that includes the duck. It is bigger, and has a longer neck.

To produce foie gras, the fowl’s liver is fattened by force feeding over a period of three to five months. Within that period of time, the liver becomes fat and in the words of one of our gourmet friends, “the goose becomes sick.” Not a very good  thought, but no gourmet thinks about that. 

So how does it become a rarity and  treasured by fanciers around the world? The Philippines is no exception, we know of a lot of people who savor the earthy taste and silky texture of this precious liver, which goes through a tedious process before it gets to the dining table.

After the goose is killed, its liver is soaked in milk, water or port wine overnight. When drained, it is marinated in a mixture of Armangnac, port or Madeira plus various seasonings, then cooked usually by baking. It is sometimes wrapped in cloth and poached in wine. When done, the foie gras is cooled and left to steep in the liquid for several days.

The more familiar pate de foie gras is pureed liver which can sometimes contain a small portion of pork liver, truffles and eggs. Because of the high cost of goose liver in the Philippine market, where at one time it was tagged at more than P6,000 a kilo, many home cooks, including us, make this delicacy using chicken liver. Not quite the same but it can be as delicate as the original.

We decided to write about foie gras because it has crept into the menus of high-end restaurants in the country. Usually offered as starter served with bread or crackers, one restaurant has gone farther and made the foie gras into a tempura! We must say the chef did very well – covering the foie gras in a crunchy coating and retaining that earthy, unique flavor of the very special liver.                 

On a more Filipino way of snacking, we dropped by the informal market at the Ayala Town Center (ATC) Activity Area for our favorite snack/breakfast food – suman. There were very few food sellers as most of the place has been taken over by those selling sports wear.

Anyway, we found our suman lady. Now it cost P40 a saklob (two pieces tied together) instead of the former 3-for-P100 price. There is also the pinipig suman with coco jam inside at P50 for three pieces. We also got a jar of nibblers, butter garlic sticks, for P120.

We noted a marked increase in the cost of prime commodities. Chicken, even the unbranded selection, is now tagged at P135 a kilo. Medicine has not been spared; they cost more now. Then some stores are still selling expired food items. Therefore there is need to check expiry dates when buying food stuff. We have just unconsciously been victimized when our kasambahay pointed out to us that the imported cheese we bought expired two months after they were put on the shelves.We called the attention of the store supervisor, but no comment from management has been received. We therefore must be personally vigilant when doing or grocery or market rounds. 

May your Sunday be happy!

E-mail me at [email protected].

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