A gamble on Guam

MANILA, Philippines - “GUAM?!”

When I mentioned that I was going to visit the tiny US territory, I wasn’t met with the optimistic approval I’d expected from friends.

One had a look of genuine concern, another of amused disbelief. One lady might have spat out her coffee, but was too refined, while yet another shamelessly mocked the whole holiday – if you can even call it that.

I was assaulted with a seemingly never-ending barrage. 

Seriously, you’re going to Guam?

There’s ABSOLUTELY nothing to do there!

Drive around for three hours and you’re done. That – or you fall off the island.

Actually, I have been there before – twice. 

The first time was on a force majeure stopover on the way home from Los Angeles. We were miserably stuck indoors due to a mega-typhoon with all the wrath and destruction in its wake – it’s in the middle of the Pacific, mind you. Before the powerful hurricane ripped through, our plane had to be dragged into a hangar so the wings wouldn’t fly off on their own.

My next trip was for a tourism investment congress where I got to see nothing beyond the airport and the hotel. I did not explore the area as my mind was focused on the success the convention.

But I promised I’d come back as a tourist. I was determined to discover and experience what Guam had in store, with the firm belief that there are still endearing spots left in the tropics that had more than the usual beach and shell souvenirs.

After reading some intriguing material on the destination augmented by my latent desire to revisit, my traveling buddies and I were on our way.

We didn’t make any plans beyond reserving our hotel rooms. It was supposed to be a free-wheeling adventure. We’d get off the plane, rent a car and drive around to God-knows-where with the sole intention of having a great time.

On our mission to check out the car rentals, the first thing we noticed upon arrival at the capital Hagåtña, formerly Agana – it was one of those made-to-order days, perfect for the outdoors – is that it’s very pleasant for leisurely walks. The streets are clean and the pavement pristine. The road signs are so informative that even in case of a tsunami – heaven forbid – you’d know where to run to.

It was curious to note that almost every other local had a K-Mart bag. We found the American department store on top of a hill and, of course, we had to invade it, if just to get a snack or two. But we ended up with such a massive load of goods that my sister wished she was an octopus so she could carry everything. On our way down, we were probably so conspicuous with our plethora of goods. And maybe that’s why the most amazing thing happened.

“ Honey, is that you?” shrieked an unfamiliar but not altogether unpleasant voice.

My sister Honey froze. The green traffic light had just turned red and a woman in sunglasses rolled down her window, waved, followed by a rapid exchange of where-are-you-staying-how-long-would-you-be-here-for-when-can-we-get-together and suddenly, the traffic light turned green and she was off on her merry way.

It turned out that she was Carol Abraham, a friend of my sister from once upon a time. Though I never met her, I knew her husband Roy, who was the former general manager of Cebu City Marriott Hotel during my tourism and travel days.

Upon our return to our hotel, guess who was at the lobby? Roy!

We discovered that they were happily living in Guam, with Roy managing the Pacific Star Resort & Spa. From that unexpected encounter at the K-Mart hill, the wonderful couple never left our side, and our gracious hosts showed us around the unassuming little corner of the world that’s been their home for the past few years.

Our dinner that first night was a glorious feast at the property’s Manhattan Steakhouse, where they pride themselves on the best steaks and lamb chops in Guam, along with delightful gourmet dishes that featured fresh local produce. The fiesta ended with a variety of delectable flambé desserts.

Roy always had a fondness for Philippine furniture, with the resort lobby strewn with elegant fixtures from Cebu, some made by the world-famous Filipino artisan Kenneth Cobonpue.

Our tour really went into full gear as we explored the historical and cultural heritage of the island with the guidance of our old friends. We went to the Senator Angel Leon Guerrero Santos Latte Memorial Park, preserving the stone columns of the traditional and iconic homes of the Chamorro people, Guam’s original residents.

We moved on to Umatac Bay Park, the time-honored landing site of the Portuguese navigator Ferdinand Magellan, days before he anchored in the Philippine seas. Nearby, there was the San Dionisio Church Ruins, the solitary remains of a complex of buildings from the Spanish colonial period.

Another point of interest was the Fort Nuestra Señora De La Soledad, a replenishing stop during the days of the Acapulco-Manila Galleon trade.

There are memorial attractions that are specifically significant to us Filipinos. We prayed at the shrine of St. Pedro Calungsod, a must-see for the spiritual on pilgrimage, in recollection of his faith and martyrdom. Apolinario Mabini has a monument dedicated to him as he was exiled to Guam, along with other Philippine heroes, by the American military authorities.

For history buffs particularly curious about the Pacific War, the museums and commemorative sites have detailed descriptions of the events that transpired.

There are frequent reminders of the vivid horrors and of human atrocity, which are all at once unimaginable given the tranquility of the place. Some reminders are practical, as there are still some mines amongst the rubble and foliage in the forests.

It was interesting to learn firsthand how a Japanese soldier by the name of Shoichi Yokoi survived from 1944-1972 as a war straggler in a decrepit cave, while refusing to surrender in a war that, little did he know, was over.

Guam’s past of colonial occupation and hostile conflict is a narrative that is close to our very own. The isle also retains in itself what seems to me is a well-balanced trajectory of development.

Economically speaking, there is a thriving tourism industry, with hotels and resorts, restaurants and bars, and a plenitude of water-based activities and booming business districts. One could shop 24/7 – Yes, 24/7. There are discount outlet stores for branded clothes and even perfumes and colognes. Delightfully unusual Duty Free Shops abound, with baseball sized lollipops and sweets, along with the latest trends in fashion.

Yet there is something so close to nature that brings about the uncomplicated lives of the islanders. There are crystal-clear rivers, protected eco sites and picturesque locales with friendly residents you’d easily mistake for Filipinos. It’s uncanny yet comforting, the way the Chamorros look so much like us.

There was a pleasant Japanese on’na selling home-made coconut wine, together with hand-picked home grown fruits and vegetables, along the streets of the more rural parts of the area. She confided that when her husband died, the neighbors thought that she would go back to Japan. But she stayed on instead, for certainly, the Pacific land mass, as severely underrated as it may seem, is home.

We met several kind-hearted people while on holiday. Case in point, after our first Friday devotion, we found ourselves stranded by a church, which, we surmised eventually, was not frequented by tourist cabs. How can we forget Alma Alopejan with her genuinely random act of kindness, who willingly drove us back to our hotel in spite of the fact that she was headed in the opposite direction.

We were likewise introduced to a generous man, Emelio Uy, a super active member of the local Filipino community and a forever presence in group pictures, who loves to entertain visiting Pinoys.

Indeed, our gamble with Guam is one that paid off exceptionally well. Being able to cater to serious shoppers, advocates of nature and history and having shared good food with new friends and catching up with the old, the island has indeed left me with the impression that it is more than just a beautiful coastline.

And remember our eyebrow raisers, who earlier bet that our holiday would be a gran fracas, a major disaster?

Well, now they ALL have a burning desire to visit and experience Guam at its best. Text and photos by Edu Jarque