Basilan’s secret charms

CEBU, Philippines - Perennial visitors of the famous island paradise called Boracay could now only wish they could travel back to a time when the sugar-white beach was once lined with palms, and not concrete buildings and thousands of tourists.

Well, if they can’t travel through time, they can just travel to another island that has an equally beautiful beach. It’s the island of Basilan, which is just off the coast of Zamboanga City. Yes, no thanks to headlines about terrorist threats, Basilan hasn’t been the destination of choice when it comes to tourism but that’s what makes it so appealing. The natural landscape and beaches have been preserved and remain free from noisy tourists who tend to leave their garbage scattered all over.

The beach in question is Malawali, which is pristine as any beach can get. Its waters are crystal clear and its white sand is at par with that of Boracay. It’s become a favorite place for local tourists. Many of the guests also come from Zamboanga City, where it’s possible to catch a Ro-Ro to the city of Isabela, Basilan’s capital. One could travel by tricycle to Malawali, which has a few amenities for those who might want to stay the night. An elegant two-storey hotel has rooms that can accommodate couples and small families. The theme for both architecture and interiors is distinctly Balinese. It also has a restaurant that serves full hot meals and snacks.

The property of the resort is so vast. It also includes a farm and a hill where a view deck has been built. From the high vantage point, one can have a spectacular view of the hills and the sea that surround Isabela City and a glimpse of Zamboanga City across the Basilan Strait.

Aside from the beach, nature lovers will enjoy the drive through some of Basilan’s many rubber tree plantations. There are actually forests of rubber trees on both sides of the road. So thick and high are these trees they seem to form a natural tunnel. So abundant are these trees, we were told that Basilan was once a top supplier of rubber for a major American tire manufacturer, which had co-owned one of the plantations.

The island of Basilan is no larger than Bohol but it has an eclectic culture, what with a population composed of the predominantly Muslim tribe called the Yakan and the Christians from Zamboanga City, commonly known as the Chavacano Zamboangeños. The most spoken language is Zamboangeño Chavacano. The Chavacanos originated from the Spanish-Jesuit settlement that established in the town of Fuerte de San Jose in 1635. Indeed, first-time visitors to Basilan will be surprised by the numerous road and commercial signs written in Spanish.

This fact isn’t lost to certain officials of the Makati-based Instituto Cervantes, who have done research on Spanish influences in Basilan and its neighboring provinces in Sulu. Hopefully, when complete peace is restored on these islands, the institute may invite Spanish nationals to visit Basilan and the rest of the Sulu islands.

The Yakans are famous for their sawal (colorful pants) which are made of tenu and come in bright and vivid colors, all painstakingly handwoven. Worn by Yakan men and women on special occasions, it takes an entire week to complete a malong. But since tourists rarely get a chance to visit Basilan, the tenu is sold at the Yakan Weaving Center in Zamboanga City. Veteran Yakan weaver Brainy Ilul said that with this store in Zamboanga, they get to reach a bigger market. Ilul followed into the footsteps of his parents and grandparents and continues the tradition of weaving malong. Born and raised in Basilan, he hopes his own children would continue the practice.

With its rich culture and breathtaking landscape, Basilan is haven for travelers searching for less touristy destinations. The stunning beaches that beckon remain tranquil and safe. After all, Paris, the romantic City of Lights, hasn’t lately been immune from terrorist threats. Yet as they still say, we’ll always have Paris. We also say, we’ll always have Basilan. Ayunan Gunting-Al-Hadj