I think that I shall never see, a kingdom as lovely as the sea

(Conclusion)

We often like to get away from it all, to get off the roller coaster that is our life, to stop and smell the flowers. But to many of us, this does not mean disconnecting ourselves from Wi-Fi or HBO.

El Nido Resorts is one such place. Even the small islands where you drop anchor for a picnic lunch, have a phone signal and LTE.

We stayed at El Nido’s Lagen Island Resort recently, an eco-sanctuary with the densest forest among all the limestone islands strewn over Bacuit Bay in Palawan, named by Travel+Leisure as the World’s Best Island in 2016 and again in 2017.

Fronting Lagen is a clear, shallow lagoon the color of a cat’s green eyes, where guests may kayak during high tide or simply wade at low tide. The lagoon extends to the base of the water cottages, which are connected by boardwalks. So sometimes, when you walk to your water cottage, you see fish swimming below you.

Lagen’s cottages and main pavilion have the tropical colonial feel, more Bahamas than Bali. Its pool is shaded by palm trees, which is corporate wife and reading advocate Lizzie Zobel’s favorite spot whenever she is in Lagen, which she says is also her favorite resort among El Nido’s four properties: Pangulasian, Lagen, Miniloc and Apulit.

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 In my eyes, El Nido — with  the islands on Bacuit Bay that comprise it — is the most beautiful place on earth. The beauty soars to the top of the tallest limestone cliff, to the bottom of the turquoise waters; from the cathedral-like caves to the powder-fine sands that ring most of the islands; from the forests that drape the mountains to the coral reefs below the sea. You go vertical or horizontal — the Almighty Architect of all beauty didn’t neglect a square inch in El Nido.

My family and I took a 50-minute AirSwift flight to El Nido, and were shuttled to the resort from the mainland in a comfortable speedboat that took us past God’s magnificent sculptural pieces, carved from limestone and glazed by the sun. The view was so picturesque we had to request the captain of the speedboat to slow down so we could drink in all its splendor.

We were welcomed in Lagen with a song in Cuyonon, the native dialect, rendered by the staff, who danced as they sang. After a brief rest, we were raring to explore the islands and were whisked off by our very knowledgeable guide Jimmy Cariño (who also served as the guide to Rachel Weisz and Ian Somerhalder when they visited El Nido separately) to Dibuluan island, where we had a buffet of grilled seafood, punctuated by fresh fruits for dessert. After lunch, we rode a Hobie Catamaran (“cat”) and sailed with the wind, which left me amazed at how much faster the wind takes a boat than an ordinary engine can.

Then we were taken to an island with an opening that could only fit one person lying on his belly. There was actually a technique to entering this “eye of the needle” — we wiggled on a plastic mat provided by the guide till we crossed the threshold and voila! A natural cathedral was beyond! There are many nooks and alcoves inside the “cathedral,” lit by rays of light from openings near the summit of the cave. These rays of light filtering into the high-ceilinged cave made one really think of a cathedral lit by the early-morning sun.

Dinner was at the resort’s main dining room, where the day’s catch was grilled to succulent perfection. It was a starlit night, and we ended the day — and night — with a drink in the terrace of our water cottage, which had stunning views of the sea, even under the velvet sky.

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If all the viewers remember of the Philippines is the final scene of The Bourne Legacy, we’re back in business! That final scene shows Jeremy Renner and Rachel Weisz on a boat on the waters of the Big Lagoon — the waters’ exact hue is difficult to paint with words. The hue is a rainbow of blue and green, shimmering under the bright sun. These waters embrace 250-million-year-old limestone cliffs chiseled to magnificent imperfection.  They form a horseshoe into which you can sail.

We were also taken to the Small Lagoon, where you can take a kayak through a small opening the size of a refrigerator. Beyond the opening is a jaw-dropping arena, an arena so green you feel like you’re sailing on smooth, melted jade.

We also went to Miniloc Island, where we fed giant jackfish (talakitok) from the seawall. Just a meter or so away from the wall, you can already plumb the shallow depths of the sea. I’m not a good swimmer, but with a life vest, and holding on to a buoy held by Jimmy, I entered a virtual art gallery. The coral reefs beneath are intricate pieces of sculpture, with sea creatures giving them a splash of color.

After a picnic lunch at Entalula Island, which has powder-like, cream-colored sand and is a favorite venue for wedding receptions, we did more snorkeling off Bayog Island. The kingdom beneath the waters off Bayog is a natural art installation, a masterpiece!

After a hearty merienda at the luxurious Pangulasian Island Resort, we sailed back to Lagen where we had cocktails as we watched the sun set.

Then it was time for a dinner with a luau theme set up by resort manager Jennifer Zafra in the shaded terrace above the free-standing bar.

The sun had set, but in the most beautiful place on earth, the happiness never did.

(For inquiries, contact El Nido Resorts, Ten Knots Development Corp. at 902-5934 and 0917-5841576.)

(You may e-mail me at [email protected].)