Tuscan travels

(Conclusion)

My Tuscan travels so far brought me to the Italian city of Pisa that is famous for its Leaning Tower; the charming towns of Lucca and Viareggio; and the Tuscany region’s capital Florence.

During our trip, we also  discovered the best that the unbelievably beautiful Italian region has to offer.

Unparalleled & spectacular views

Belmond Villa San Michele in Fiesole at night.

Nestled on a hilltop amid lush trees and terraced gardens is Belmond Villa San Michele. This has to be the most beautiful hotel I have ever stayed in!

Located in Fiesole, Belmond Villa San Michele offers unparalleled and spectacular views of the city of Florence, a mere 20-minute car ride away.

The Villa’s façade, which dates back from the 15th century, is attributed to Michelangelo. Its lush Italian gardens are filled with lemon trees and fragrant roses, which can be seen from the indulgent rooms.

It was a joy staying in my room, which had its own mini-garden/private veranda. I did not want to leave the property, not even for shopping or sightseeing in the city. Belmond Villa San Michele  was simply heaven on earth.

I spent an hour ogling the magnificent beauty of this place before I got ready for our welcome cocktails and dinner held at the Villa’s garden, which  overlooked the city of Florence.

Our group was given an elaborate welcome complete with performers dressed in medieval finery. We then took turns wearing medieval-style hats as we sipped specially prepared cocktails that included the (real and original) Bellini from Harry’s Bar in Hotel Cipriani in Venice, which is also part of the Belmond Group.

I was impressed by the simple dinner, especially with the traditional insalate Caprese (with mozzarella and basil) served sans tomatoes, which were ingeniously replaced with grilled watermelon. The night was filled with great company, superb food and great wine.

I also had the opportunity to learn how to draw on concrete within the hotel premises. An Irishman named Jonny, who is studying Art in Florence, was hired by the hotel to simulate street drawings. I definitely learned some drawing tips from Jonny, whom I would bump into a few days later doing his art on the streets of Florence.

San Gimignano

The charming hill town of San Gimignano in the province of Siena, Tuscany is famous for its medieval architecture and encircling walls. The town’s Historic Center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The next day, we left Belmond Villa San Michele for the nearby San Gimignano, a small, walled medieval hill town in the province of Siena, Tuscany. This town is famous for its medieval architecture and encircling walls forming “an unforgettable skyline.”

Our guide Simona said, “Get ready to experience medieval vertigo (at San Gimignano)...” which I didn’t fully understand at the time until we got there and saw all the soaring towers! The well-preserved buildings are notable examples of both Romanesque and Gothic architecture.

The Historic Center of San Gimignano is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. At the heart of the town are the Palazzo Comunale, Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Assunta and Church of Sant’Agostino. They contain frescos dating from the 14th and 15th centuries.

Piazza della Cisterna, the main square of the town that is triangular in shape, is surrounded by centuries-old buildings.

In this quaint town resides  Gelateria Dondoli owned by two-time gelato world champion Sergio Dondoli. This gelateria, famous for its original and unusual gelato flavors, is always full. Tourists, including celebrities, flock here to get a taste of the best gelato in the world. Sergio himself served us his famous Crema di Santa Fina (cream with saffron and pine nuts) gelato. It was heavenly!

The city center has beautiful shops that sell Italian ceramics, fine embroidery, and saffron, a spice that San Gimignano is famous for.

Siena

The 12th-century Siena Cathedral.

That afternoon, we proceeded to the city of Siena. It was my first time in Siena and it was then that I understood where the name of the color “sienna” came from. (The color reportedly took its name from the city of Siena, where it was produced during the Renaissance.)

Like that of San Gimignano, the Historic Center of Siena is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is one of the nation’s most visited tourist attractions.

The Piazza del Campo, a shell-shaped town square, is surrounded by Palazzo Pubblico with its tall Torre del Mangia. This is part of the site for the twice-a-year medieval horse race, Palio di Siena. The Palazzo Pubblico houses Ambrogio Lorenzetti’s frescoes depicting The Allegory and Effects of Good and Bad Government.

The 12th-century Siena Cathedral (Duomo) is another sight to behold. It is a masterpiece of Italian Romanesque-Gothic architecture. Several of the inlaid marble mosaic floors of the cathedral are among the most elaborate in Italy. The sacristy and Piccolomini library have well preserved Renaissance frescoes by Ghirlandaio and Pinturicchio, respectively.

After a full day of exploring San Gimignano and Siena, we headed back to Belmond Villa San Michele for our group’s last night in town. An elaborate dinner was prepared for us at the hotel’s restaurant with, again, a wonderful view of the city of Florence — a view I can never ever get tired of.

A jazz band serenaded us as we dined on Italian food including one salad dish that was based on the personal recipe of 16th-century Italian noblewoman Catherine de’ Medici. After this whole Tuscan experience, I vow to explore the other properties of the Belmond Group and return to this property again one day.

Can’t get enough of Florence

Truffle pasta at Florence’s Mercato Centrale.

As the rest of my companions headed to their respective countries, I stayed in Florence for a few more days.

I didn’t miss the chance to visit the Uffizi Gallery that houses the masterpieces by Caravaggio (including my favorite Bacchus) and Botticelli (which include two of my favorites, Primavera,  also known as Allegory of Spring,  and The Birth of Venus). Just like the Academia, advanced bookings or reservations are highly recommended for this museum.

For so long, I wanted to visit the Basilica of Santa Croce. I finally got the chance to see the tombs of Galileo, Michelangelo, Rosinni and Machiavelli.

While in the city, I also had the famous Bistecca alla Fiorentina. Made of Chianina beef, this dish is widely available in Florence.

I also traveled to Panzano in the beautiful Chianti region to visit the restaurant of world-famous master butcher Dario Cecchini. Dario was extremely friendly and his all-meat menu was original. It was certainly worth the drive to eat at this meat-lovers’ heaven.

I couldn’t get enough of Florence that my last day was spent shopping and having a wonderful food tour of the Mercato Centrale, which I visited with my Filipino-Italian friend Romina Diaz, who actually conducts food tours in Florence. She definitely knew her stuff as she gave me helpful tips when shopping at Mercato.

I strongly suggest that one should do a food tour (half day or full day) when in Florence. My Italian friend, who joined me in the short food tour, was very impressed with how Romina conducted the tour.

I left Tuscany with a heavy heart (and suitcase) as I made my way back to Doha.

It was at The Airport Hotel in Doha’s Hamad International Airport where I stayed while waiting for my connecting flight to Manila. It is reportedly the only airport hotel with a swimming pool!

The flight back to Manila didn’t seem long at all with Qatar Airways’ excellent service, meals on demand and an extensive collection of movies and television series. I must have watched five films while on board!

I fell in love with Tuscany 17 years ago. With Qatar Airways adding Pisa as one of its new destinations, it would certainly be more convenient for Filipinos to take this flight and end up directly in Tuscany. I will not wait another 17 years to rekindle my love affair with this beautiful region of Tuscany.

(Qatar Airways flies twice daily from Manila to Doha, and once daily from Clark to Doha. From Doha’s Hamad International Airport, passengers can seamlessly connect to more than 100 destinations including Pisa. For more information, visit qatarairways.com/ph and www.qatarairways.com or call 519-1888. Visit Tourism in Tuscany at www.turismo.intoscana.it/site/en.)

(Follow me on Instagram @pepperteehankee.)