Taal: Vigan of the South

(Conclusion)

Taal mocks time because of its people’s stubborn insistence on celebrating their past by making it part of their revered present. Like in Vigan in Ilocos Sur (one of few Hispanic Philippine towns dating back to the 16th century), yesterday is today in Taal, Batangas.

Aside from preserved centuries-old homes, which cradled many a revolutionary heart, Taal (about an hour’s drive from Tagaytay) is also known for its centuries-old houses of worship. Leading these edifices is the 18th-century Taal Basilica (Basilica of St. Martin de Tours), the biggest Catholic Church in Asia,  and the 17th-century Church of Our Lady of Caysasay, one of two Philippine churches that have been recognized as a shrine by the Vatican (the other being the Church of Our Lady of Manaoag in Pangasinan).

The Casa Victrola reception area (above); displayed in the house is an antique Victrola (right).

Pilgrims to the Shrine of Our Lady of Caysasay receive a plenary indulgence (an indulgence is a remission of the temporal punishment due to sin, the guilt of which has been forgiven) granted to those who visit the ancient church of St. Mary Major in Rome, the Catholic Church announced in 2012.

Shrine of Our Lady of Caysasay. Photo by BÜM TENORIO JR.

The Shrine is built out of coral stones and is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The legend goes:  The Virgin’s image was caught in the fishnet of a religious man in the 17th century and transferred to the church.  While it was inside the church, the image mysteriously disappeared and re-appeared until one day, it disappeared completely. Several days later, seven kilometers away from the Old Taal, two women were surprised by the reflection of the image on the clear waters of a well. Looking upwards, their gaze was met by the image on a tree branch with lighted candles on each side, guarded by Casaycasay birds (Kingfisher). 

Not far from the Caysasay Church are the carved coral stone arch (left) and the wells of St. Lucy (right) that are said to produce water with healing powers. Photos by BÜM TENORIO JR. and JOANNE RAE RAMIREZ

The image, no more than six inches tall, is fondly called a “fashionista” because her garments are changed regularly by parishioners. Behind the altar is a tall glass cabinet that has at least two long rows of her garments, all donated by Taaleños, who are known to be skilled embroiderers.

Not far from the church, at the end of a winding dirt road and nestled amongst the trees, are the two wells that are said to produce water with healing powers. Some townsfolk refer to these wells as the “Lourdes of Asia.” There are no baths or faucets here. An old caretaker of the well simply uses old pails to scoop water from it and the faithful use this to splash water on themselves. If anything, the cool, clear water relieves one of the heat, and if one faith is as deep as the well, who is to refute the miracles attributed to this water?

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Also in this heritage town are restored houses of Casa Gahol and Villa Tortuga, the Villavicencio House,  the Goco House, the De Las Alas House and  the Agoncillo House, home of Marcela Agoncillo. She was the principal seamstress of the first and official flag of the Philippines, gaining her the title of Mother of the Philippine Flag.

Most old houses in Taal are the typical Bahay na Bato. The first floor is of concrete, with elaborate staircases leading to the second floor. Hardwood floors at least a foot wide carpet the second floor, which has high ceilings and resplendent chandeliers. The starkness of the wood is lightened by the latticework (callado) on the walls, and the carved wall dividers called ventilados. Sliding capiz windows with ventanillas underneath ensure the cool breeze wafts through the rooms.

Aside from the 18th-century Villa Tortuga, which was restored by artist Lito Perez and named after the turtles frolicking in the river beside it, there is Casa Victrola. Also restored by Lito and under the care of his good friend Rogie Reyes, is the 19th-century Casa Victrola. Lito named it so because, “story goes that during the Liberation period, the aunties of the owner of the house would bring out their Victrolas and place them on the street in front of the house. They would party with American GIs every evening to celebrate freedom!”

It was his deep faith and appreciation of history that convinced Rogie, for his part, to make Taal his home.

“Upon invitation from family friend Lito Perez and after staying in the US for my unfinished doctoral course in music, I decided to stay in Taal for good because for one, it is near Manila as I still teach music in DLSU-College of Saint Benilde. But there is another reason why I decided to stay in Taal, I was praying to Our Lady of Caysasay to give me a sign if I should stay or go back to the States. She did not give me one but two signs. I was invited to be the choir director of a private school in Taal and the other sign is, I lost my much-treasured cellphone while riding a tricycle going to the municipio. I was so worried because I have the important numbers in my cellphone and at the same time my PLDT open overseas call-line. Within 30 minutes, I called the tricycle driver and he went back to the municipio looking for me and returned my cellphone!

“I was informed that if that happened in another town in Batangas or Manila, others could have been tempted to use my overseas open line to call their relatives somewhere else. Taal also has much history, you can have a walking tour on your own,” Rogie adds.

So let’s take out the Victrolas of our hearts and celebrate the freedom, the patriotism, the artistry and the heritage of Filipinos. Visit Taal, and hear the music playing.

(For inquiries about Villa Tortuga and the Taal heritage tour,

please text 0927-9751683.) (You may e-mail me at [email protected].)