Siquijor: Island of fire

CEBU, Philippines - Very few islands in the Philippines have the unique balance between accessibility and remoteness in the way that Siqujor does.   This tiny flower-shaped island off the coast of Negros Oriental is shrouded in mystery and magic – qualities that have both repelled and appealed to outsiders. Those who dare to set foot on the island come upon sugary white shores and an interesting island culture.

Among those who remain intrigued, Siquijor is “Mystic Island.” But, truth be told, the only magic in Siquijor is the island’s natural ability to captivate the most intrepid of wanderers.

The Spaniards dubbed this piece of paradise as “Isla del Fuego,” literally, “Island of Fire.” The name was so because of the mysterious glow that came at dusk on the island – from the swarms of fireflies that flitted around the lush vegetation. The show of lights from the mangrove forests fringing its shores could be seen from a great distance.

Local legend has it that the island eventually became known as Siquijor when the Spaniards, after being drawn to the island’s mysterious evening glow, decided to set foot on the island where they were met by the island’s ruler named Kihod. When they asked of the name of the place, the ruler replied, “Si Kihod,” perhaps thinking he was asked what his name was. The Spaniards mispronounced the name as Siquijor.

Another legend, however, would say that Siquijor was an island born from the depths of the sea after an earthquake rocked the seabed amid a cataclysmic thunderstorm.   No one knows exactly the veracity of this tale but some farmers say that they uncovered shards of corals and shells at the heart of the island which may point to the possibility of the island rising from the ocean at some point in time.

In any case, Siquijor’s spellbinding beauty is a sight to behold and an experience to savor.   Words could not sufficiently describe the beauty of the island, which is undoubtedly more beautiful and relaxing than Boracay, its more boisterous neighbor. This island paradise can toured around in a day, at a comfortable pace.

From my recent visit to Siquijor,  I have these quick tips for those thinking about escaping to the island without having to spend too much.   Believe me, Siquijor has “affordable luxury” down pat.

Siquijor. The municipality of Siquijor is the capital of Siquijor province and one of its ports of entry.   The town is strewn with beautiful public beaches lining the edges of its crystal clear waters.   One such beach is visible from the Siquijor port, from where can be heard the yells of kids frolicking in a game of beach volleyball at the vast expanse of white sand fringed by jutting rocks and lush green foliage on the far end.   

We couldn’t resist the urge to walk along the shore and wade in the water. Tiny periwinkle crabs clawed their way out of the sand and scuttling towards gentle waves just as we were passing by. Then we proceeded and chanced upon the Saint Francis of Assisi church, a centuries-old structure that is a fitting backdrop to the sign welcoming visitors to Siquijor.   The church is well-preserved, retaining much of its original facade and the coral blocks that were part of the church since its construction in 1831.

Larena. Larena is right next to Siquijor town and, like Siquijor, it is a port of entry to the island.   Apart from its beach, the Saint Vincent Ferrer Church and the bell tower that stand near its shores are important sights to see. Marine sanctuaries and dive spots are found in Cangmalatag, Sanduagan, and Bitaug, with signs pointing to the sites visible from the circumferential road.   Or, the traveler may simply ask the friendly locals how to get there.

Enrique Villanueva.  We made a quick stop in one of the marine sanctuaries of Enrique Villanueva, a few minutes’ drive from Larena.   The town’s beaches were among the most untouched in the island, the more visited beaches being located in San Juan.   We parked our car alongside outrigger boats that were parked between the coconut trees far from the beach’s sandy shore.   Although we could not get inside the marine sanctuary center at the time, we enjoyed goofing around with the local kids playing on the sand bars sandwiched in between mangrove forests.

Maria. Maria is home to the famous Salagdoong Beach, a favorite among the locals for its beautiful shoreline and the jutting cliffs that lean towards the vast sea. The journey there was just as enjoyable as the destination itself, passing through a long tunnel of trees – the Salagdoong man-made forest.   The sky was barely visible under the intertwined branches arching above us.

Apart from cliff diving, one may catch a golden sunset from the pavilion at the topmost part of the Salagdoong Beach’s highest cliff.

Lazi. The town is my personal favorite because of its concentration of fascinating spots.   Both the Lazi convent and the San Isidro Labrador Cathedral are only two of the centuries-old structures found in the town. The convent and the cathedral, both very historical, are right in front of each other so you only need to cross the street to explore both landmarks.

The San Isidro Labrador Cathedral is one of the best-preserved Spanish colonial churches in the whole Philippines.   Its exterior retains much of its original coral facade, its interiors delicate and charmingly worn out with the floor made of diagonally placed hardwood planks and its domed ceiling retaining much of the murals meant to inspire the churchgoers to look up to heaven. The Lazi Convent has been converted into both a museum and a school.

Other spots to visit are Cambugahay Falls and The Enchanted Balete.   Cambugahay Falls is a shallow, mutli-layered waterfall with refreshingly cool, milky green water flowing from its highest point. Visitors love to take the plunge from the tarzan swing attached to the tree near the rocky edges.  We trekked to the highest point, where it was more quiet and private, devoid of crowds.  

The Enchanted Balete is an easily accessible spot located by the roadside on the way to San Juan. The balete is a symbolic tree in Siquijor, known for its associations with sorcery and mysticism.   The Enchanted Balete is a serene forest enclave with glittering blue waters, where one can dip his feet in for a fish massage for just Php 5 per person, with no time limit. 

San Juan. Most of Siquijor’s best beaches and shorelines are located in San Juan; many of the island’s best beach resorts are here. Paliton Beach has one of the best shores in San Juan where you can easily lounge in and while away a sunny afternoon.   We lingered in San Juan the whole afternoon. 

Getting there:

Siquijor is easily accessible from Dumaguete City, the capital of Negros Oriental.   My group decided to bring along a car, so we could explore the island at our own pace.   We boarded a boat (Aleson Shipping Lines) at 8 a.m., and arrived at the island at around 9:30 a.m. The boat fare was Php 1,300 for the car, Php 100 per person.  

If bringing along a car, it’s important to have a photocopy of your car’s papers ready (like the car registration and official receipt), because these are needed to have the tickets signed by the coast guard and Philippine Ports Authority personnel.  It is best to be at the port an hour before the scheduled trip to avoid having to rush to have the corresponding tickets and documents verified.

If not bringing along a car, the traveler only has to pay for his or her own ticket.

From Dumaguete, there are two points of entry to Siquijor – via Siquijor province or via Larena.   I suggest you choose the way via Siquijor province; the sight of its pristine public beach will have you kicking off your flipflops and rolling in the sand right the moment you arrive.   So far, the cleanest harbors I’ve seen in the Philippines are those of Siquijor and Oslob, Cebu.  

To get to Dumaguete, daily flights are available to Dumaguete from Manila and Cebu.   But to those coming from Cebu, I suggest to go the longer route by taking a coastal drive from Cebu City to the port in Santander or Liloan. From here you can easily take the barge or fast craft to Dumaguete City. If you take the Santander barge, you’ll land in Tampi, which is 30 minutes road trip from Dumaguete City.   If you take the Liloan fast ferry or barge, you’ll arrive in Sibulan, 15 minutes from Dumaguete City.   Public transpo is available from either Tampi or Sibulan to Dumaguete City.   Regular slow boat also sails from Cebu to Dumaguete.

If coming from Bacolod, there’s the yellow bus to Dumaguete. Travel time is approximately six hours.

Going around:

Since my group brought a car, we didn’t waste any more time to go around the island, negotiating with multicabs and tricycles on the way. Bringing a car, renting a motorcycle, or going with a friend who has a car   not only saves you money (van rental can be as expensive as Php 3,000 a day!) but saves you time, too.  

One won’t likely get lost in Siquijor, because he or she only needs to follow the Siquijor Circumferential Road, which neatly traces the perimeter of the island to get from one municipality to the next. Most of the interesting spots are found along the Siquijor Circumferential Road.

Where to stay:

Coco Grove is a popular option when people think of Siquijor. But my group decided to stay in a cozier retreat in Brgy. Tag-Ibo, San Juan town, a place called U Story, an art gallery-cum-resort perched on a cliff with bungalows, villas, and lounges. It is hard to miss because it has a huge sign and some bamboo flags right by the Siquijor Circumferential Road.

The resort has an interesting mix of Balinese and Filipino design concepts, with private lounges and nooks overlooking an endlessly blue sea.   If you linger by the edge of the cliff early in the morning, swarm of yellow butterflies surrounds you.   In the evening, fireflies light up the garden’s paths.

Where to go:

Not all of Siquijor’s six municipalities are rife with activities. But I suggest that the first-time traveler do a quick round of Siquijor, to know what each municipality has to offer, and then return to the municipality that fits what you want to do should you decide to visit Siquijor again.